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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,

About a week ago I noticed that my cabin heat wasn't working when I was in all-electric mode. Seems to be a very common problem and after 2 minutes of searching on the forum I came across the pretty recent and incredibly helpful and concise 6 minute video that ibdeilbert created. (Thank you so much for that - really to the point and informative.)

I'm in Dallas, TX, USA, and it's about to hit the hot summer so I figured I'd take my time to get it fixed as I'll probably DIY it.

Yesterday, however, a far more serious (again... TX summer...) issue cropped up. My cabin AC performance appeared to go out literally as I was driving. It was very odd - I was driving along normally and in the middle of my trip I noticed that the air felt less cold and it was getting more humid in the cabin.

The "AC On/Off" indicator on the climate screen seemed to be bouncing on and off even when I was on max low temperature setting.

My question to the forum: is there any way that the heater issue and AC issue could be related? I read through the diagrams on this other very informative thread and it seems that the AC circuit and cabin heating circuit are completely independent. I just wanted to check in and ask if I'm missing something though, or if a sensor/computer fault could instead be the overarching issue vs. the more common mechanical failures.

Thanks!
Chetan
 

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I'm guessing this is a Gen 1?
There's no AC button on Gen 2 and all the HVAC controls are actual physical buttons.
If this is Gen 2, either the ECO or MAX button indicator must be lit otherwise it's only blowing air.

If you're not getting cold air and the compressor and fan are working, it's probably a leak. A tiny rock to the condenser would cause a leak in minutes.

Or if you're neither getting heat nor cold air, it might just be a bad switch or a bad relay.
 

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If the compressor is bad, it is the only A/C component covered by the 8 year/100,000 mile Voltec warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi, yes it's a gen 1 2013 volt. The car has 110k miles so it's out of warranty as well.

It's unfortunate, this is really the first major issue I've had with the car in my entire owernship since new. This thing has been rock solid reliable. The heater issues seems like a trivial fix (semi easy 1 hour DIY job minus flushing the coolant which is easy but messy) but resolving AC issues, in my experience, can get complicated and expensive quickly.
 

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I'm absoonot sure it that apply to your issue
I have a 2015 and the heat stop one day
Was working a little on gas but stop eventually too
I went to the dealer, their suggestion was to change the heat unit 3000$ +

A garage specializes in tesla and volt /bolt offer to check the 3 sensors attaché to the heat unt
And yes one of the sensor was not working right

After a "huge" 65$ with labour everything work fine since 2 years and I leave on Ontario Canada so yes yes is mandotary

GM don't sell the sensor only so you need to find used salvage parts

Just a suggestion

I hope you will find at a low cost what going on


Envoyé de mon SM-G975W en utilisant Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm absoonot sure it that apply to your issue
I have a 2015 and the heat stop one day
Was working a little on gas but stop eventually too
I went to the dealer, their suggestion was to change the heat unit 3000$ +

A garage specializes in tesla and volt /bolt offer to check the 3 sensors attaché to the heat unt
And yes one of the sensor was not working right

After a "huge" 65$ with labour everything work fine since 2 years and I leave on Ontario Canada so yes yes is mandotary

GM don't sell the sensor only so you need to find used salvage parts

Just a suggestion

I hope you will find at a low cost what going on


Envoyé de mon SM-G975W en utilisant Tapatalk
Thanks for the reply. This is interesting.

I was doing some diagnostics on my heater issue today and it turns out that I think the pump, which, what I understand, is the unit that usually fails, might be fine. I can hear something humming along next to the passenger wheel well when the heater is on in battery mode. So I suppose maybe the valve is faulty. I order one today and see if I can swap that out without it flushing my coolant which I really don't want to have to replace.

Once I do that, if I am still encountering the AC issue, I'll take it into pep boys and have them run a diagnostic.
 

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Before you completely rule out the pump, I have no first hand experience, but it is my understanding that the problem is the impeller stops turning with the motor shaft. So the motor will actually still run, but the impeller won't be moving the fluid, at least not enough fluid to work properly. Something to do with the adhesive or however the impeller was attached to the motor. Just a thought if the valve doesn't solve the problem.
 
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