[llninja]

I hopped into my gen1 Volt, started driving, and noticed the check engine light was illuminated. There were no warning messages on my DIC. I pulled into an AutoZone, they scanned it, and came up with no messages, yet the CEL is still illuminated.

Any thoughts on what's going on here? I only have Onstar basic, so I'm guessing calling them will prompt them to ask me to upgrade so they can read the codes.

 

[kgvickers]

You like bragging about how you drive it like you stole it ... with no regard for efficiency. Maybe your Volt is just begging for some relief.

 

[llninja]

You like bragging about how you drive it like you stole it ... with no regard for efficiency. Maybe your Volt is just begging for some relief.

The actual phrase I use is that I drive it like a jackrabbit.... or like Jeff Gordon.

 

[AZ EV Driver]

I'm going to guess that the AutoZone scan tool doesn't read the Volt correctly. Try a different auto parts store or the dealer. As for Onstar wanting to upgrade - you don't have to agree.

VIN # B0985

 

[Belgin]

Sometimes you get the CEL because the gas cap is not tight or you unplugged and then plugged in the charge cord quickly. If it's something like that, the code will clear after you go through a complete discharge and then charge.

 

[flyingsherpa]

I guess try a different scanner, but that does seem odd.

Drives me crazy that, with 2 screens in the car, that it can't just show you diagnostic codes itself. Still waiting for a leaked version of the car software (or maybe just a hidden section in the current software) used by GM engineers in their personal Volts that allows you to see diagnostic codes and a breakdown of engine vs EV miles (among other things).

 

[Arcanox]

I guess try a different scanner, but that does seem odd.

Drives me crazy that, with 2 screens in the car, that it can't just show you diagnostic codes itself. Still waiting for a leaked version of the car software (or maybe just a hidden section in the current software) used by GM engineers in their personal Volts that allows you to see diagnostic codes and a breakdown of engine vs EV miles (among other things).

In Gen 2, pushing all the radio buttons at once (there are 5 of them) enters Diagnostic mode. There's a section with "DTC" in the title, but I can't make out the data in that section...it's jibberish unless you have some sort of lookup manual or tool that I'm sure is very well protected inside GM headquarters.

Torque should be able to read the codes, however...it has a massive database. I believe it will show the raw code for ones it doesn't have, as well.

 

[llninja]

Sometimes you get the CEL because the gas cap is not tight or you unplugged and then plugged in the charge cord quickly. If it's something like that, the code will clear after you go through a complete discharge and then charge.

I did do something different today, while charging at L1 in the parking deck, I pulled the plug from the power outlet side first instead of from the J1772, but I didn't think that would affect anything....maybe I was wrong

I also have a software scanner for my older iPhone that I can use, the cable and the phone with the older 30 pin plug are both at home, so I'll have to try that later.

 

[Arcanox]

I did do something different today, while charging at L1 in the parking deck, I pulled the plug from the power outlet side first instead of from the J1772, but I didn't think that would affect anything....maybe I was wrong

I also have a software scanner for my older iPhone that I can use, the cable and the phone with the older 30 pin plug are both at home, so I'll have to try that later.

If the car loses line power before it gets the signal from the J1772 handle to stop charging, it treats it as a fault. On my Gen 2, it will text me that the charging was interrupted, and start the repeating "lost power" alarm (or, it did before I pulled the pedestrian protection fuse). I don't know if it sets the "charge cord theft alarm" off or not. I would imagine it does, because that would be a really terrible alarm if all you had to do was unplug the charger from the wall first.

 

[Barry]

I agree the scanner used is probably not compatible. Worth trying your own.

Also, FWIW, I would avoid unplugging from the power outlet while charging. If you do that, you are unplugging with full current flowing. Unplugging at the J1772 side first will turn off the current when you press the handle unlatch button (which, of course, is before you unplug).

 

[2VoltFamily]

I did do something different today, while charging at L1 in the parking deck, I pulled the plug from the power outlet side first instead of from the J1772, but I didn't think that would affect anything....maybe I was wrong

I also have a software scanner for my older iPhone that I can use, the cable and the phone with the older 30 pin plug are both at home, so I'll have to try that later.

We have a winner! After a few starts or few miles the CEL will turn off.

 

[llninja]

If the car loses line power before it gets the signal from the J1772 handle to stop charging, it treats it as a fault. On my Gen 2, it will text me that the charging was interrupted, and start the repeating "lost power" alarm (or, it did before I pulled the pedestrian protection fuse). I don't know if it sets the "charge cord theft alarm" off or not. I would imagine it does, because that would be a really terrible alarm if all you had to do was unplug the charger from the wall first.

Cord theft alarm was off (I didn't bother setting it). I did not see the a charging interrupted message nor did I hear the lost power alarm.

 

[llninja]

We have a winner! After a few starts or few miles the CEL will turn off.

So, self induced CEL, huh.... That saves me a trip to the dealership (though I'm 18% away from my 3rd oil change.)

 

[2VoltFamily]

So, self induced CEL, huh.... That saves me a trip to the dealership (though I'm 18% away from my 3rd oil change.)

18%, that is like 3 months yet.

 

[Arcanox]

18%, that is like 3 months yet.

I actually got mine changed at 20% because it was, to my knowledge, original oil and the car was 2 years old. I kept getting e-mails from my dealer that I was due.

 

[Upper5Percent]

I actually got mine changed at 20% because it was, to my knowledge, original oil and the car was 2 years old. I kept getting e-mails from my dealer that I was due.

You'd get oil change requests from your dealer if you owned a BOLT!!...

 

[volt spain]

Similar issue in volt 2014,,resolved after changing O2 sensor.

 

[Arcanox]

You'd get oil change requests from your dealer if you owned a BOLT!!...

That's true

But the oil was 2 years old, and that's about the time when synthetic oil begins to degrade. It looked a bit dirty too, so I took it in when I had a weekend free. Got a pretty cheap oil change from my dealer and they did some standard inspections and took a look at a potential recall as well.

 

[llninja]

You like bragging about how you drive it like you stole it ... with no regard for efficiency. Maybe your Volt is just begging for some relief.

So if the other forum posters are correct, my driving habits didn’t trigger this CEL. Interestingly enough, the CEL stayed on after my multiple starts and stops at AutoZone, was still on when I stopped and restarted after dropping off some items at my son’s house, but when I returned to work, recharged the battery on L2, the CEL turned off. So the culprit appears to be me, unplugging in the wrong order. That 9 Miles I was able to charge at L1 in the parking deck turned out to be more trouble than the aggravation and time spent diagnosing what happened. But lesson learned.

 

[stilcrazee]

Previously posted this in the wrong place, your CEL sounds a lot like mine:

2012 with about 38K on odo. I've had some cold temp issues with the ICE not starting. started happening 2-3 weeks ago when temps were 24 degrees and I got a warning message on DIC that the battery was cold and needed to be plugged in. Message appeared 2x during my 3 mile drive home. when home I popped hood and ICE ran. Put car in garage, closed hood, it was still running. I shut it off and restarted and no ICE. Next day temps between 12 and 14, no ICE. again, popped hood and ICE ran, switched to watch Power Flow on dash and saw no power from ICE to battery. Next coupe days seemingly no issue as it had warmed some outside. Week going in to Christmas with temps down, no ERDTT happening but did get the check engine (engine icon on DIC). Called dealer and made an appointment and by the time I got it in the light had cycled off, dealer called me and advised that 4-5 modules needed software update, out of warranty so I gave ok, cost was about $360. When I picked it up the service writer had called GM technical and had been advised based on stored codes that updates were needed and SHOULD solve the issues. I did notice that Mountain mode (I was using it to be sure that I was getting any charge from ICE so I didn't get stranded altogether) didn't seem to start ICE until there was 10 miles of battery left, previously when ever I put it in Mountain, the ICE would start.
Had check engine light come on again and due to timing and needing to use car I cycled through it again but took it out to have them do and OBD on it and it showed stored codes from prior. I told the writer when the light came on again I'd come right there so they could scan it. Well, that happened last Friday Dec 29th. Five years and one day from purchase. I don't remember what the code was but was told they'd need the car, I deferred appointment until today because I didn't want to tie the car up all weekend, just in case.
Light was still lighting this morning prior to dropping vehicle off.
Dealer called me at about 3PM this afternoon to update me that tech had called GM Technical again and technical has authorized/advised replacing the hybrid battery. He felt that "SHOULD" solve the problem. Fortunately it's warranty. battery due at dealer tomorrow, I may have vehicle back tomorrow night.
I will follow up with result. I am hoping that this does solve it, while it is a great car, it may be time to move on. I gave up an HHR for the Volt and have missed the room ever since.

I got the car back today, the advisor had given me wrong info about what was replaced. They replaced the Drive Motor Battery Charger. On the way back to my office the ICE ran almost the whole way (watching the "power flow" animation on dash showed ICE running but not charging battery), last 3 blocks it switched to battery power and almost immediately I got the warning "battery too cold, plug in to warm". That was the third time since Thanksgiving this year (never before since 2012) I had seen that.

I am confused as I thought when the ICE ran it ran to charge the battery and the vehicle always ran off battery, now the power flow shows the ICE powering the vehicle and when backing off accelerator it shows regen.