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For the second time I have had an issue where my volt would not provide heat. The "HEAT ON" symbol would not turn on and had to make a real cold trip. This is the second time this has happened so I took it into the dealer to be reviewed. Apparently this is a none issue and GM is working on a software fix...

Temporary fix: Turn car off, get the key fob at least 300 feet from the car for 15 minutes. This will force the Volt to reboot. I tried turning the car off and on, but I did not get the keyfob out of the car. This did not fix the problem.

Thought some of you 2013's would like to know..
 

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There seems to be at least one other recent thread on this with many 2013 owners having the same problem. I, too, have noticed crappy heat, but i've used my car so little so far i've kind of just lived with it without paying attention. I'll start making notes on the situations I see so i can add to the conversation and eventually contact my advisor/dealer.

http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread...-heat-yesterday-3-start-cycles-but-fine-today
 

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I had a similar experience recently. It was 40 degrees outside and the heat would not turn on. When I turned the temperature up, the fan blew more intensely but still no heat. I stopped and turned the car off and then back on. The problem didn't go away. It seemed to recover when I drove the car the next day. I took a video of it with my phone if anyone is interested.
 

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I had a similar experience recently. It was 40 degrees outside and the heat would not turn on. When I turned the temperature up, the fan blew more intensely but still no heat. I stopped and turned the car off and then back on. The problem didn't go away. It seemed to recover when I drove the car the next day. I took a video of it with my phone if anyone is interested.
Yeah, i think posting your video (especially to the earlier thread i linked) would be helpful. Someone else posted a video earlier as well. Comparing situations would be helpful, i'm sure.
 

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For the second time I have had an issue where my volt would not provide heat. The "HEAT ON" symbol would not turn on and had to make a real cold trip. This is the second time this has happened so I took it into the dealer to be reviewed. Apparently this is a none issue and GM is working on a software fix...

Temporary fix: Turn car off, get the key fob at least 300 feet from the car for 15 minutes. This will force the Volt to reboot. I tried turning the car off and on, but I did not get the keyfob out of the car. This did not fix the problem.

Thought some of you 2013's would like to know..
Thanks for posting the temporary fix, wst-volt. It sounds like this issue will come up again until GM releases the fix. I wonder if this is related to the radio changes (the radio seems to be king of the console) made for 2013? Seems like some software got messed up somewhere.
 

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For reference, how long should it take until the air becomes warm using electric heat when starting the car from relatively cold? That is, when the heater is working properly, of course!
 

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In the 30's, my 2013 takes ~4 minutes in comfort mode before the vents aren't just warm, but warm enough to start heating the cabin. You could try using your Power Gauge, to see if at least the battery is delivering the 4-5,000 watts that the Comfort/Hi draws. Another point of potential confusion is the looking for dash venting, when the 'Auto' setting isn't delivering any. I'd test full manual, no recirc, at just the dash vents before concluding something was wrong.

I have had zero heat, but only once. It was odd, and obvious, but I believe restart worked. Sorry you are having trouble. I hope it doesn't also happen when you use the engine??
 

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Thanks pjwood,

I haven't done enough troubleshooting yet myself and will try not to clog the conversation with speculation. But I will say i haven't tried the ICE yet, and when i was having poor/no heat, the heater/heating-element definitely seemed on (icon said 'on' and climate power gauge was high). From what i gather in the previous thread, there are two different classes of problems seen:

1) Heater off despite cold car and cold outside, just blows cold air (heater icon says 'off', climate power low-ish)
2) Heater on (according to icon and high power), but still blows cold air

I think the theory on the 2nd one is the internal vent doors (directing which heat reservoir it uses) may be going to the wrong state, i.e. using ICE coolant when it should be using the electric heater, but I don't know.
 

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Kind of obvious, but I suppose you tried full auto / comfort and were not in the fan only mode. I've never had that problem on my 2011 in over 48,000 miles and into the second winter.
 

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Kind of obvious, but I suppose you tried full auto / comfort and were not in the fan only mode. I've never had that problem on my 2011 in over 48,000 miles and into the second winter.
Yeah, from the other thread you can see that this seems to only be affecting 2013 models and seems quite real.
 

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This is the known workaround from the other thread. The engine can be used to provide heat when the electric heater is not functioning.
 

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I had the same thing happen to me. The second time I tried to get into the dealer while the problem was happening but the dealer did not have a volt tech. He was on vacation. So after trying many things here is what got the heat back. With the car plugged into a level 2 charger I turned the ignition on and selected "on hold". I thought this would start the ICE. But it did not. The climate control was on auto and I think ECO set to 72 degrees. After about 10-20 mins I went out to check and the heat was working. The put the drive mode back to normal and it has been fine ever since.

Ray
 

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Just thought I would add something. The first time the heat did not work I selected "on hold" to run the ICE while driving. This did nothing for the heat. It was still blowing ice cold.
 

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2) Heater on (according to icon and high power), but still blows cold air

I think the theory on the 2nd one is the internal vent doors (directing which heat reservoir it uses) may be going to the wrong state, i.e. using ICE coolant when it should be using the electric heater, but I don't know.
Glad its working. If it happens again, I just wanted to say that on the 2013 you have a rotating dial to the left of the steering wheel, where tire pressure, nav instructions, etc are found. One of the new selections on that dial is what a Volt Advisor called the 'Power Gauge'. Not the climte power percentage on the center stack display, but this gauge will tell you how many watts will come from the battery as you turn the heat on. This could further confirm that the reservoir doors may be your problem, as long as you see the normal ~4kw rise in your power gauge when you go Comfort/Hi-heat. If watts don't jump, it's probably software. Obviously, you'd need to do this when stopped so you can control for steadier watt output.
 

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Guys, I had the same problem with the heat not switching on today for the first time. In addition to the heat not switching on the AC switched on sporadicly at any temperature setting - even at HI and also in the Comfort setting - Fan blowing at high speed! Restarting the car after mall visit didn't resolve the issue. Looks also for me like a major SW bug in the climate control program. Did Chevy already release a SW update / fix?

Thank you

Pete
 

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In the 30's, my 2013 takes ~4 minutes in comfort mode before the vents aren't just warm, but warm enough to start heating the cabin. You could try using your Power Gauge, to see if at least the battery is delivering the 4-5,000 watts that the Comfort/Hi draws. Another point of potential confusion is the looking for dash venting, when the 'Auto' setting isn't delivering any. I'd test full manual, no recirc, at just the dash vents before concluding something was wrong.

I have had zero heat, but only once. It was odd, and obvious, but I believe restart worked. Sorry you are having trouble. I hope it doesn't also happen when you use the engine??
Didn't see this thread before, and posted in another..
The OP's issue sounds just like what my 2013 is doing.
I've noticed that it has only done it to me after the engine has heated enough to force the electric heat off. From that point on, the "heat" icon stayed off even after the car got cold. Restart didn't work. It just blew cold air unless the engine kicked back on again for long enough to warm up.
When it happens, the guage on the climate screen can go all the way to 100%, but the graph on the dash doesn't show any draw from it. Mine was showing 100% on climate screen, but only .5kw actually used while standing still, and I think that was the seat heaters.
I tested everything. Manual vent settings, no recirc, auto recirc, even setting temp to "HI". The auto-defrost button just turned the AC on and just about froze me. I just couldn't get the heat icon to come back on. You still get engine heat, but no electric heat.
It all went back to normal after a full re-charge, and heater worked again. Did it to me twice this week so far though.
I did just e-mail volt advisors asking if there's a fix.

What happens if you use Hold Mode to turn on the ICE? Just curious.
You get the heat while the engine's running, and then freeze at stoplights when the ICE is off.. No change on the heat icon, it stays off no matter what when it gets bugged until you recharge it again. Haven't tried the 300ft distance away from the remote trick.
 

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There is a bulletin out from GM for the heater issue. My dealer showed it to me after my first 2013 Volt had that exact same issue, no heat and instead the AC would turn on in electric mode. But they were awesome enough to give me a new replacement Volt as I had only driven it 2 miles. The issue is present only in certain 2013's.
 

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After reading the Volt coffee table book; "Chevrolet Volt, Charging into the Future." On page 136, Andrew Farah talks about this very problem on page 136 where some of the circuit boards for the electric heaters in the preproduction Volt were connected wrong. It seems that the instructions for which connector went where were confusing and "was probably translated from some other language" [his words].

He went on to say, "We swapped a couple of wires around the other way, and it worked flawlessly."

Earlier in the book they talked about color-coding connectors to avoid such issues on the production line but, maybe they didn't follow that process on the heater module.

Might be worth a look at the dealer to see if that happened to yours.
 
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