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@Blanch

P0A9C, P0AC6, P0ACB, P0AE9, P0BC3, P0C34, P0C7D, P0C82, P0C89, P0C8E, P0C93, P0C98, P0CA9, P0CAE, P0CB3 and P0CB8
• The hybrid/EV battery temperature sensor is in normal operating range, but is 15°C (27°F) different from the other sensors.
• The difference between a hybrid/EV battery temperature sensor and the average of the other hybrid/EV battery temperature sensors is greater than 10°C (18°F).
• The range of the hybrid/EV battery temperature sensor during the period the temperature average was shifting is less than 1°C (2°F)


DTC P1E00 is a Type A DTC.
Reference Information
Description and Operation
Hybrid Modes of Operation Description
DTC Type Reference
Powertrain Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Type Definitions
Scan Tool Reference
Control Module References for scan tool information
Circuit/System Verification
Note: Correct any engine control DTCs before diagnosing hybrid powertrain control module 2 DTCs.
1. DTC P1E00 is an informational DTC. If there are no other engine control DTCs set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle for diagnosis of hybrid
powertrain control module 2 DTCs.
2. Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC to verify the DTC does not reset. You may also operate the vehicle within the conditions that you
observed from the Freeze Frame/Failure Records data.
 

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I went to visit family for Christmas for a week, came back, and now my Volt won't start without a jump-start.

In the past, it had problems starting when I didn't turn it on for more than a couple days, but after jumping it and letting the engine run for ~15 minutes, it would work fine. Now, it won't restart no matter how long it runs for.

Just now, when I turned it off, the interior some lights cut to about half brightness, and the automatic unlock worked 2-3 times before all electronics cut out (about 30 seconds after turning off).

Two other bits of info that MAY be related:

1. I've had a check engine light on for P0ACB/P0ACD Check Battery Temp Sensor and a P1E00 unknown issue reading for the last couple months, and twice the car has not temporarily failed to start because the "battery is too cold to start", though a couple seconds later it turned on normally.

2. I've also noticed the car is a lot louder in city driving situations than before.

I replaced the 12V battery several months ago (with the correct 12V for a Chevy Volt)

Any ideas on what the issue could be?

The two times I've had to take the car to the dealership, they were ineffective, and I can't find a private mechanic who wants to mess with a hybrid (I live in Baltimore).

Thanks in advance,
Zac
Miller brothers in ellicott city works on volts. Try them if needed.
 

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Had this problem last December, 60k miles, I started jumping it worked great for a week and started needing to be jumped til it left me stranded, I was able to jump it block by block till I got it home lol, that car is now gone totaled for other reasons, well new 2017 model it happened as well, after going thru it with my 2012 for 2 months, I found the fastest solution is go by a new battery, it was the issue 3 times with my volts fattest way to determine if that's the cause, after many articles it always was for others as well. It's the fastest fix if you can afford it to avoid everything I just read, sometimes batteries are duds especially in today's quality control of manufacturing. They may be Chevy but batteries are rarely made in America.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
So, after replacing the 12V battery, I had 380 mAmps of parasitic draw. After removing the OnStar/Phone fuse, it dropped it to 80 mAmps! I didn't bother with the whole "let your car go to sleep for an hour before testing trick", so Idk if it's a legit 80 mAmp draw or if it's actually lower most of the time the car is "sleeping." I have never used OnStar/Bluetooth, so I just pulled the fuse and chalked this up as a win.

Thanks a bunch guys!

One last question, I noticed what looked like a disconnected tube when I was replacing the battery (pictures below) - any idea if it's supposed to be connected to something?

171671


171672
 

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Did you replace the original battery or have it done? I believe that is a vent tube, but I'm wondering whether it was plugged into the original, and whether the replacement even has a vent port.
 

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That's the vent tube. It plugs into the side of the AGM battery. Hopefully you have an AGM battery installed--otherwise you are going to have problems:

171675
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Thanks for the info, and yes, replaced with an AGM.

Of note, it was the dealership that replaced it last time, so looks like they left the vent tube out.
 

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Thanks for the info, and yes, replaced with an AGM.

Of note, it was the dealership that replaced it last time, so looks like they left the vent tube out.
A Chevy dealership replaced your battery? Your picture shows a battery from Advance Auto Parts. A GM dealership would have used an ACDelco battery. Also, it's hard to tell, but it looks like the sticker says it's a NON sealed lead acid battery. This cannot be AGM because they are sealed, which is the reason for the vent.
 
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A Chevy dealership replaced your battery? Your picture shows a battery from Advance Auto Parts. A GM dealership would have used an ACDelco battery. Also, it's hard to tell, but it looks like the sticker says it's a NON sealed lead acid battery. This cannot be AGM because they are sealed, which is the reason for the vent.
I agree, looks like a lead acid battery from the minimal part of the label we can see. That would explain why the vent tube isn't connected
 

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Two things. Don't ever use that dealership again. Get the right battery and change it yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
1. Sorry, to be clear, I took this photo AFTER I changed the battery myself - the dealership installed the previous battery (not pictured), which just died. I found the vent tube disconnected when I opened the trunk floor to remove the 12V.

2. I believe the current battery is a Diehard Platinum AGM, which is the battery Advance has listed for the 2012 Volt. Is there an issue with using this battery?
 

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Definitely make sure your vent tube is plugged in otherwise you might get a bit loopy with those fumes in the cabin.
 

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1. Sorry, to be clear, I took this photo AFTER I changed the battery myself - the dealership installed the previous battery (not pictured), which just died. I found the vent tube disconnected when I opened the trunk floor to remove the 12V.

2. I believe the current battery is a Diehard Platinum AGM, which is the battery Advance has listed for the 2012 Volt. Is there an issue with using this battery?
It's still possible they gave you the wrong battery. I sure would love to know what that sticker says. NON S something? And your vent tube will need to be routed over by the positive terminal side to plug in.
 
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