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Discussion Starter #1
I went to visit family for Christmas for a week, came back, and now my Volt won't start without a jump-start.

In the past, it had problems starting when I didn't turn it on for more than a couple days, but after jumping it and letting the engine run for ~15 minutes, it would work fine. Now, it won't restart no matter how long it runs for.

Just now, when I turned it off, the interior some lights cut to about half brightness, and the automatic unlock worked 2-3 times before all electronics cut out (about 30 seconds after turning off).

Two other bits of info that MAY be related:

1. I've had a check engine light on for P0ACB/P0ACD Check Battery Temp Sensor and a P1E00 unknown issue reading for the last couple months, and twice the car has not temporarily failed to start because the "battery is too cold to start", though a couple seconds later it turned on normally.

2. I've also noticed the car is a lot louder in city driving situations than before.

I replaced the 12V battery several months ago (with the correct 12V for a Chevy Volt)

Any ideas on what the issue could be?

The two times I've had to take the car to the dealership, they were ineffective, and I can't find a private mechanic who wants to mess with a hybrid (I live in Baltimore).

Thanks in advance,
Zac
 

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Also check that the connections are tight at the battery.

What do you mean by louder? The ICE is louder? General road noise entering the cabin is louder? Some kind of whirring sound?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
do you have access to a dc volt meter
i would be checking your voltage at the battery
Thanks - just checked and got right under 4V. Which is definitely a problem, but like I said, I just replaced that 12V battery a couple months ago, and wasn't having problems until I left for a week. Any idea?
 

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12V battery got drained by something left on?
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Also check that the connections are tight at the battery.

What do you mean by louder? The ICE is louder? General road noise entering the cabin is louder? Some kind of whirring sound?
Battery connections are snug.

General whirring sound that turns on when I start to drive, but turns off after a bit. Often accompanied by a sound of liquid sloshing around. I have no idea if this is a related issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
12V battery got drained by something left on?
I don't think so Steverino. Like I said, it used to die every couple days I didn't drive it before changing batteries. I think it could be a parasitic draw, but it's hard to get the dealership to check it, and I do know of any private mechanics in Baltimore who will mess with a hybrid.
 

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Definitely a 12V battery issue. To start, you definitely need to replace the 12V battery. Once they die a couple times, they aren't going to last long. If you can get a current meter, you could check the power draw when the car is off. I know some Gen I cars had an issue with the OnStar module continually draining the battery, but I think it usually took more than a week. I've also heard issues of the bluetooth connection draining the battery if if doesn't disconnect from your phone. You could try turning bluetooth off on your phone for a while.

Have you had the latest recall performed regarding battery cell voltage? That could help with your point #2, but shouldn't affect the 12V battery.
Point #1 again is a separate issue, and should probably be addressed. There's a small possibility the failed sensor is causing excess battery drain I suppose, but I think it would be unlikely.
 
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I had a parasitic draw on my Integra that would drain the battery in three days. I measured it while removing one fuse at a time until I got the circuit. Turned out it was the ignition switch because I had sprayed it with graphite for lubrication. I flushed it out with silicone and all was well. You could do a similar thing with Volt. If rear hatch is up there will be a light on drawing, you could either take out the bulb or when pulling a fuse watch for a falling amperage (won't be zero with light on).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update: I just checked (thanks for the recommendations), and I'm at 130 milliamps of parasitic draw - apparently for "an older car", it should read fewer than 50 mA, so I guess that could be part of the problem?

If so, then I guess I will copy FIspider - replace my battery, then go thru all my fuses until I find out which one the parasitic draw is on?

Emartin00 - I just looked on my GM website account and it said there were no applicable recalls for my Volt. I bought it in late 2017, so the previous owner could have brought it in before that, but I don't see it in the service history. Can you fwd me the recall you're referring to?

Thank yall
 

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Update: I just checked (thanks for the recommendations), and I'm at 130 milliamps of parasitic draw - apparently for "an older car", it should read fewer than 50 mA, so I guess that could be part of the problem?
New Circuit/System Testing for Parasitic Draws

If amperage is 40mA or higher, follow the fuse voltage drop test to identify the fuse(s) with an ongoing draw

According to GM's techlink website linked above, above 40mA should be considered parasitic draw and would have to be isolated
 

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Couple of other simple/quick checks can be made to verify 12V AGM charging loop is operating correctly:

Your gen1 should continue to be powered 'ON' once successfully started then remove 12V AGM from circuit i.e. negative lead pulled off battery. This will confirm the APM is operating correctly and generating enough voltage to be able to keep the AGM charged during operation

Another simple test is once plugged in and actively charging, you could again break the circuit by pulling off the negative battery lead and the gen1 should continue charging. If the gen1 stops charging once the 12V AGM is disconnected, this means the Lear 3.3kW High Voltage Charger located behind the passenger side front bumper isn't able to provide enough keep-alive voltage to prevent the AGM from going flat while actively charging...
 

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Couple of other simple/quick checks can be made to verify 12V AGM charging loop is operating correctly:

Your gen1 should continue to be powered 'ON' once successfully started then remove 12V AGM from circuit i.e. negative lead pulled off battery. This will confirm the APM is operating correctly and generating enough voltage to be able to keep the AGM charged during operation

Another simple test is once plugged in and actively charging, you could again break the circuit by pulling off the negative battery lead and the gen1 should continue charging. If the gen1 stops charging once the 12V AGM is disconnected, this means the Lear 3.3kW High Voltage Charger located behind the passenger side front bumper isn't able to provide enough keep-alive voltage to prevent the AGM from going flat while actively charging...
dont know if would disconnect battery well it is running
should be 14 volts plus
 

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Update: I just checked (thanks for the recommendations), and I'm at 130 milliamps of parasitic draw - apparently for "an older car", it should read fewer than 50 mA, so I guess that could be part of the problem?

If so, then I guess I will copy FIspider - replace my battery, then go thru all my fuses until I find out which one the parasitic draw is on?

Emartin00 - I just looked on my GM website account and it said there were no applicable recalls for my Volt. I bought it in late 2017, so the previous owner could have brought it in before that, but I don't see it in the service history. Can you fwd me the recall you're referring to?

Thank yall
What dealership(s) have you been to? I ask because other GM owners in Baltimore may want to avoid them as well.
 

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dont know if would disconnect battery well it is running
Done this many a time on my gen1...properly working APM provides @14VDC to keep the volt 'ON'...Lear 3.3kW High Voltage Charger provides this same voltage but only when actively charging(green light on dash)

When my original AGM died and had to jump, once my gen1 was turned 'ON' pulled the negative lead off the AGM then drove to O'reilly with this battery disconnected in order to score the replacement AGM;)
 

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i saw how crazy my 2017 was with the battery connected
cant imagine how it would react with it disconnected
 

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i saw how crazy my 2017 was with the battery connected
cant imagine how it would react with it disconnected
Not sure about gen2 but with APM sustaining the full load as well as providing voltage to keep the AGM topped-off when operating, disconnecting the AGM from the circuit should have no impact on operation of the volt since the function of the AGM is to provide enough @12VDC current to be able to 'boot/turn ON' the computers...just simple electronics really

Pulling the negative lead off my gen1 while turned 'ON' has no effect on the operation and was able to drive and had no DTC codes/CEL for the entire duration...
 

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Thanks Somms and Supchrgamx, I'll get to work on this in the morning!

Obermd - the first time was Marine Chevrolet in Jacksonville, NC. This second time was Bob Bell Chevrolet in Baltimore. I just get the sense that the dealership mechanics get so few Volts that their shops aren't prioritizing Volt expertise. It's frustrating - this forum is significantly more helpful than either of those two dealerships.
 

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Thanks Somms and Supchrgamx, I'll get to work on this in the morning!

Obermd - the first time was Marine Chevrolet in Jacksonville, NC. This second time was Bob Bell Chevrolet in Baltimore. I just get the sense that the dealership mechanics get so few Volts that their shops aren't prioritizing Volt expertise. It's frustrating - this forum is significantly more helpful than either of those two dealerships.
My dealership lost their volt tech due to a health issue, and they never replaced him. I now have to go to a different dealer 18 miles away to find someone qualified to work on my car.
 
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