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Discussion Starter #1
Have a 2012 premier (original owner) with close to 120k miles on it. Over the last couple of weeks, some odd things have started happening. Since it's out of warranty for everything but the Voltec, I thought I would get some advice.

1 - I hear an intermittent click sound. Might be one, might be 2 or 3, but they happen randomly and are not directly correlated with starting, stopping or turning the wheel. It sounds like an electronic switch getting triggered and it seems to originate from the left side of the dash on the drivers side. Almost where the door meets the frame. I have tried to duplicate it and can't. Happens sometimes once or twice during my commute, but it's impossible to predict in order to record it. It started on 12/31 and I hear it almost every day when driving now.

2 - My headlights (replaced the OEM with LEDs about 2 years ago) have started "adjusting" brightness while I'm driving. Since I'm driving, I can't tell for sure, but it's almost like one light might go out, then flash back on after a bit. It seems to happen when it's colder, but I haven't found a rhyme or reason to it. I figure the easiest thing is to replace the bulbs back with the basic halogen bulbs to see if the problem persists. (I added this as a symptom that may be contributing or be related to #1 above)

3 - After the clicking sound started, the radio controls in my steering wheel stopped working intermittently. (Of course, everything is intermittent) The volume, source and channel up/down functions stop working, or only work after holding the button down for a while. After a couple of mins, I try again and they are fine. Really weird. I don't see a direct correlation to the clicking (other than both of them started around the same time). I've tried to use the button right after hearing the click and it sometimes works and sometimes doesn't. So, it's not like the click happens, then I lose functionality. They seem to happen independently.

Here's my current plan.... I have not replaced the 12v battery in the 6.5 years I've had the car. All of the forums I read suggest that a failing battery can cause all sorts of odd issues. So, I'm having the battery replaced on Sat morning. I should be able to tell if the issues go away quickly after that. Even if it's not the battery, I figure 6.5 years is a good run for it and it's probably due.

If that does NOT solve the problem, does anyone have suggestions on what to look at? Could it be some fuse that is "sort-of" failing? Not sure where to start with these problems. Since they all started around the same time, I have to think they are related...

Any advice/help is appreciated. Thanks
 

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Ok, so here's an update.

Replaced the battery on Saturday. The clicking sound continued to happen intermittently (sounds like some sort of relay on the left hand, drivers side) and the wheel-based radio controls acted the same (in and out) afterwards. That evening, I noticed the lights acting the same way as well. (Appears like the right light goes out, for a few seconds, then flashes back on). So, back to the drawing board.

Jump to this morning on the drive in. Starting getting the occasional clicks and everything exactly as it has been. Then after about 30 mins of driving, the car started wigging out. The display brightened to full, flashing a number of different messages. (Service Anti-theft system, Service traction system and a bunch others). The lights would go out, then my turn signals stopped worked, it was having an electrical seizure. Stopped on the side of the freeway and shut down. Sat for a few minutes, powered up and everything was fine. No vehicle messages on the dash, nothing. Drove the remaining 20-30 minutes without issues.

I need to take it in to get it diagnosed. It's just odd that no messages persist on the system to indicate what is failing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Another thought (for anyone that might want to jump in).

The clicking sound I'm hearing, definitely sounds like it's coming from the driver's side fuse box. I went through the fuse diagrams for that box and don't see any specific fuses that might be the culprit. Possible F11 - Body ControlModule 4/LeftHeadlamp?

It's odd that it looks like my right headlamp is the one doing the off/on issue, but the sound is definitely coming from the right fuse box. Is there a "master fuse" or relay that feeds that box that might be freaking out?

Also, since the first problem I noticed was the headlamp going off/on (month or two before the clicking), should I replace the leadlamps to see if that is causing the other symptoms?

I'm going to pull the fuses one-by-one tonight and see if any are failed. Probably order some replacement lamps as well, since that would be a cheap way to fix this problem.
 

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Has anyone ever replaced any fuses with auto reset circuit breakers? That might explain the intermittent nature of the issues, and the clicking sound (I'm not sure how loud these are). The only relay I see listed in that fuse box is for retained accessory power, so it does not seem like that would explain your issues.

Regarding your notion to remove the LED headlight modules, have you noticed the problem only happens with the headlights on? Were the aftermarket headlight modules wired in with relays (less common for LEDs, but common for HID)? If either of those is true, I would definitely try removing them.
 

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I agree, replace the LEDs as a simple troubleshooting step. I'm wondering if they may be causing EMI noise that is interfering with other things (steering wheel), etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Update: Replaced by LED headlights with standard halogen bulbs last night. Brightness is not as good, but they work.

On the commute this morning, no dimming or flickering of lights, no clicking and no issues with the steering wheel audio controls. I have had these issues consistently every morning for the last two weeks, so I am hopeful the LEDs were the root cause.

Keeping my fingers crossed that a $32 pair of bulbs has finally fixed my issue. Will post an update if the problems come back.
 
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