[obermd]

I wonder how much that part costs and how much is labor. From the PIP it doesn't look like it should take that long to do the work, unless there's a lot of engine support system disassembly to get to the actual repair.

 

[jfk-volt]

I wonder how much that part costs and how much is labor.

Googling the bearing and seal part numbers listed in the PIP finds that you can get both for about $100. So, labor would be $2260. I have read on this forum that the work takes less than a day to do, so at 8 hours that is $282.50 per hour.

John

 

[caronjeff]

They have to disassemble the left front suspension to get at it. Then the actual bearing R&R is done with a specific press tool. I would want the documented procedure followed to a T with proper tools etc. My 2011 was done twice and each time I looked at the disassemble, pretty complex. The first time it was done the technician left a motor mount bolt loose. That created a strange clunk which took 3 trips in to finally find.

 

[obermd]

They have to disassemble the left front suspension to get at it. Then the actual bearing R&R is done with a specific press tool. I would want the documented procedure followed to a T with proper tools etc. My 2011 was done twice and each time I looked at the disassemble, pretty complex. The first time it was done the technician left a motor mount bolt loose. That created a strange clunk which took 3 trips in to finally find.

So the parts are inexpensive as parts go. The labor is very intensive.

 

[bboaze]

They have to disassemble the left front suspension to get at it. Then the actual bearing R&R is done with a specific press tool. I would want the documented procedure followed to a T with proper tools etc. My 2011 was done twice and each time I looked at the disassemble, pretty complex. The first time it was done the technician left a motor mount bolt loose. That created a strange clunk which took 3 trips in to finally find.

I had front brake rotors on a car replaced under waranty once and the tech left a caliper bolt loose which allowed the caliper to come loose and puncture the tire rim. Luckily it was in town and didn't kill me.

 

[sbachman7117]

They have to disassemble the left front suspension to get at it. Then the actual bearing R&R is done with a specific press tool. I would want the documented procedure followed to a T with proper tools etc. My 2011 was done twice and each time I looked at the disassemble, pretty complex. The first time it was done the technician left a motor mount bolt loose. That created a strange clunk which took 3 trips in to finally find.

I had that bearing work done on my 2011 for around $1500 in late 2019. That included a new motor cover (around $300) which is not always needed. The price did not include the bearing itself. I had ordered it thinking I might do the work myself, but once I learned about the special tool caronjeff mentions above, I bailed. The dealership (Bill Crispin in Saline, MI) was good about installing the bearing I'd bought. You do get a coolant change as part of the process.

 

[pomalley2]

I am attempting this myself as I couldn't justify 2300 in labor for a $72 bearing. I was ok lowering the frame and removing the cover, but what a mistake! Once you get to the bearing and the teflon is corroded, that "special tool" to pull the bearing will pull the inner race and ball bearings out, leaving the outer race which is impossible to remove. Once the inner ring comes out, the "special tool" is no longer useful as it doesn't open wide enough. Plus, there is no gap behind the outer race for the "special tool" (i.e. bearing puller and bridge) to grab so it just slides out under pressure. Now I am stuck with a car all taken apart and a bearing I can't get out. I don't mind spending the time, but when I get stuck with no solution, it pisses me off. If you have a 2011 or 2012, I would highly recommend biting the bullet and have the shop do it. JMHO..