GM Volt Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last week, I ordered a Bolt because my new job won't allow me to charge my 2012 Volt on campus (don't get me started!) and I didn't have enough range to get there and back. Since then, I've discovered that my Volt's AC compressor has failed, and would cost $2800 to replace. I'd love to put that money down on the new car instead, but how risky is it to continue driving the Volt for the two months or so until the Bolt arrives? It's beginning to cool down here in NC, but we still have days in the upper 80s or so. The sales guy says he wouldn't fix it, but the mechanic was kind of vague about what exactly the risk is? Thanks for any advice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
573 Posts
I see this is your first post. And I'm pretty sure you know the Volt has a "gas backup" for when you run out of electric range, so not having enough charge to get you there and back shouldn't be a problem. And the Volt A/C is required to keep the main battery cooled so it really isn't an option to leave broken. I guess it might survive for a while, but it was my understanding that it will eventually throw a code with inop A/C.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I’m wondering if it would damage the car irreparably if it throws that code?
Nearly $3k is a lot of money to sink into a vehicle that I’ve already decided to trade in.
(And driving on gas everyday for half my commute is a problem for me, personally.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
862 Posts
How many miles on the odometer of your 2012 Volt? Even though it’s an older car, it could be worth more than you think. Your dealership is probably offering peanuts in trade for it. Check comparable Volts for sale on Autotrader.com for a price comparison. I’d fix it then sell it personally. Someone will pay way more than the dealer trade number.
 

·
Registered
2011 Premium, Nav (added back-up camera! :)
Joined
·
537 Posts
Are they willing to give you $4,500 knowing the A/C is out?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
862 Posts
If you’re anywhere close to Michigan I’ll give you $5,000 as is. But I believe if it’s fixed and without any codes or issues, and the battery checks out ok, it’s worth $10,000 minimum. How many miles on the odometer?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,201 Posts
If that's a good ol' southern hot dog in your picture, I'd go eat a few of those while you think about what you're going to do. Hopefully they have unseasoned crinkle cut fries to go with them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,451 Posts
Since no one is really answering your question: Is it safe? Well, the "danger" is overheating the battery, which can cause it to lose "life" much quicker and can do permanent damage. But how hot is too hot? Hard to say because we can't monitor the pack temperature easily (I'm sure there are OBD tools that allow this though). In my experience, the car would sometimes kick on the a/c to cool the pack even in the high 70's ambient, but it depends on how you're driving. If your commute is 45mph on flat roads the whole time, that's different than highway speeds at 75mph with hill climbs.

If you wanted to be super safe, you could just run the engine when it's hot out, which lightens the load on the battery... but you have a 2012 so no Hold mode. Mountain mode causes a high charge rate (which heats up the pack) until it hits the state-of-charge it wants, so that might actually be worse (unless you turned on MM with a full pack and let it drain to that level, then always enabled MM for each drive to stay at that level). I'd think the best option would be to just run the pack down and not plug it in, if you're worried about overheating it.

But if your morning commute is like 70F ambient and you were charged and use the whole pack on the way to work, then drive ICE home when it's hotter outside, that's actually probably decent. I just wouldn't plug it in to charge until it cools down at night to be safe, and only do 120V (L1) charging.
 

·
Registered
2011 Premium, Nav (added back-up camera! :)
Joined
·
537 Posts
I would suspect that you will get some sort of code that that will shut down the car if the battery gets too hot. I guess you can always try.

However, if the you are trading the car in to the dealership that has diagnosed the problem and is offering you $4,500 for trade, I would suspect they are making out quite well on the deal. Personally, I would take the car to a separate mechanic and see if the A/C compressor is indeed dead. I suspect that is a fairly expensive part, but I doubt replacing it would cost $3k... maybe 2k?

Are there any codes being thrown? What are the symptoms?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
The Volt compressor is a bit different than typical- doesn't run off of the engine via drive belt, it's electric. I'm guessing the GM price on it is $$$$$$.

Out of curiosity I looked for a compressor- doesn't seem like anyone has it new.... used ones are available on EBay for various prices, looks like probably $200-$300 for a decent low mile one.

I'm guessing an independent shop could replace for a LOT less than what the deal is quoting you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
I wouldn't get a Bolt in your scenario TBH, any issues you have using a bit of gasoline verses coal or NG (for electric) is moot. Unless you have a huge solar array charging the Bolt, but then you already did the environmental damage with the manufacturing processes. 🤷
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top