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2012 ERDTT running all my wife's 40miles commute.... Any ideas?

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Hi all, proud owner of a 2012 Volt that we bought this spring. Range is top notch with runs of 37 miles usually.

We're in Quebec Canada and now temps are dropping. This Monday something weird happened. It was about 15F outside.

My wife's commute is about 46 miles one way and the ICE never stopped running the whole commute?!?!?

I know ERDTT will run to heat up coolant and such as it happened to me last week but after a while it would switch back to battery only and the ICE would stop.

But this time, the whole distance, it never stopped. She does use and add gas regularly so there is not old fuel in it.

Today, it just keeps switching between battery and gas during her transit...

Any ideas?
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Do you park outside or in a warmer than outside garage? Many of these older Volts (including mine) will run on gas in cold weather even when its warmer than the ERDTT trigger point. Today my 2011 started the ICE 30 seconds out of the garage, even though the Battery range showed 21. The outside temp was 33 Fahrenheit and my 2011 trigger point for ERDDT is 26. It ran in gas 13 miles before switching finally to battery, then showing the range at 19. It sat parked but unplugged out in the sun for 3 hours, upon restarting was on battery and everything back to normal. I figure the 11 years old battery needs to be babied, so I use mountain mode a lot in winter, and if ICE starts immediately as it did today, I just accept that the software is accomplishing saving my battery. All summer long it was great with 27-32 miles range.
 

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Engine Running Due To Temperature

here is a reddit link start

reddit.com/r/volt/comments/aamvwm/erdtt_is_the_worst/
 

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Ok, so no more ERDTT.

Doesn'T the volt need it to heat some coolant for the battery and such?
it will come back every time the car is started,so you have to turn it off again and again.........
 

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Leave it plugged into a 240v Level 2 connection when not in use so the battery is preconditioned. Beyond that, I'd let it do it's thing and just enjoy the warm cabin.
 
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How long has it been since you put gas in your wife's Volt? This sounds more like FMM than ERDTT.
 

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Filemon,
Air temp was about 15F (-9C), but what was the temperature as displayed on the center display? The engine will run as long as the car's controller is detecting a value of less than a specific threshold. AIr temperature could be 90F (+32C), but if that air temperature sensor circuit is open (unplugged sensor, broken wire) the controlled interprets that as cold and the ERDTT will start.
The battery is heated, but the heat is dependent on the heat source available. When plugged in it can be kept to a temperature level by the grid electric. With ICE running it can be kept at a temperature by the engine coolant. It's during long duration of unplugged that I'm not sure of. Does the battery consume its stored charge to maintain a current flow rate capability? I don't know. I've had alerts of "battery too cold, plug in to warm" without ICE starting so I don't think a cold battery pack, by itself, would cause ICE operation.

Caronjeff,
The top and a side of the car might have been in the sun and gaining some radiant energy, but the battery underneath was in the shadow and could gain none of that. The battery may have retained enough internal warmth created by current flow during the trip there, enough to last three hours. My 2014 hasn't started the ICE for a battery too cold reason. Maybe just not cold enough?

Off OIl,
Like you, I leave mine plugged in while at home. I don't bother with pre-conditioning the cabin though. Even on 240 volt level 2 the consumption rate for pre-heating the interior for 10 minutes uses power at a rate faster than the ESVE alone can provide. The shortfall comes from the battery. When pre-heat times out, the EVSE is able to top-off the battery. By the time the battery is full the cabin is cold again.

Obermd,
I don't know when the first post was edited, but it mentions that gasoline is used and replaced regularly, so not likely FMM.


ERDTT was implemented for supplemental defrosting capability, and not for any battery temperature reason.
 

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moved to Problems...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the replies. Yeah i edited the post to add the info about the gas as i knew it would come up.

The car is always plugged at home and stays plugged in the whole night before leaving in the morning.

Like i said, it's our first winter with a Volt. I just thought it was weird that the ICE ran her whole commute and stopped just about a mile from work. Then on her way back, while i was talking to her, it would switch from battrey to ICE back and forth. Sometimes revving pretty high also...

Can't seem to know figure out why really but we're still getting about 55mpg or 4.2 L/100kms
 

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Thanks for the replies. Yeah i edited the post to add the info about the gas as i knew it would come up.

The car is always plugged at home and stays plugged in the whole night before leaving in the morning.

Like i said, it's our first winter with a Volt. I just thought it was weird that the ICE ran her whole commute and stopped just about a mile from work. Then on her way back, while i was talking to her, it would switch from battrey to ICE back and forth. Sometimes revving pretty high also...

Can't seem to know figure out why really but we're still getting about 55mpg or 4.2 L/100kms
Not really sure how ERDTT differs between Gen 1 and Gen 2. I have 2018 set for ERDTT at 35F (Deferred if chosen is 15F). Comes in handy lately as temps in IL have dropped down in the 20's for the AM commute. I have noticed that when pulling out of garage (40F) and temp drops below the 35F mark engine does run, Coolant Temp when starting out is around 50F. When ERDTT kicks in I see the coolant temp rise to somewhere around 150F, then ERDTT shuts off. When the Coolant Temp gradually drops down to 125F, maybe after a few more minutes or miles at 125F, ERDTT kicks back in and repeats the + 150F ~ + 125F cycle throughout my AM commute. Volt's gotta do what a Volt's gotta do. I love it!
 

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The Gen1 when in ERDTT mode similarly cycles the ICE to keep waste heat from the combustion process available for windshield defrost duty. Any diversion of warmed coolant to the battery appears to be a secondary, not primary, function of that ICE operation. The engine is running anyway for the windshield, and the thermal inefficiency means there's much more heat that would otherwise not be used, so why not send some scraps of heat to the battery....
 

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The battery is heated, but the heat is dependent on the heat source available. When plugged in it can be kept to a temperature level by the grid electric. With ICE running it can be kept at a temperature by the engine coolant. It's during long duration of unplugged that I'm not sure of. Does the battery consume its stored charge to maintain a current flow rate capability? I don't know. I've had alerts of "battery too cold, plug in to warm" without ICE starting so I don't think a cold battery pack, by itself, would cause ICE operation.
The battery and ICE coolant loops are separate, so running of the ICE cannot directly heat the battery. The engine may run to provide some battery charging or to provide extra power to the battery coolant heater, but the engine coolant will not directly heat the battery.
 

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The battery and ICE coolant loops are separate, so running of the ICE cannot directly heat the battery. The engine may run to provide some battery charging or to provide extra power to the battery coolant heater, but the engine coolant will not directly heat the battery.
They're separate loops, but.... all the radiators are in the same place. And the ICE radiator is upwind and and the fans push its heat through the battery cooling radiator to the outside world. I'm not gonna say it's designed that way on purpose, but it's entirely POSSIBLE to (accidentally or not) warm the battery with waste heat from the engine without the coolant loops being interconnected. See fig 5 on The Chevrolet Volt Cooling/Heating Systems Explained
 

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They're separate loops, but.... all the radiators are in the same place. And the ICE radiator is upwind and and the fans push its heat through the battery cooling radiator to the outside world. I'm not gonna say it's designed that way on purpose, but it's entirely POSSIBLE to (accidentally or not) warm the battery with waste heat from the engine without the coolant loops being interconnected. See fig 5 on The Chevrolet Volt Cooling/Heating Systems Explained
I think you are mixing up the direction of the air flow... No way they would put an 80F battery radiator behind a 190F engine radiator. You'd have a cooked battery pretty quickly!
Rectangle Font Parallel Diagram Slope
 

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Does the 12 let you choose cold or very cold like the 2015? My ELR doesn't.
The very cold setting is not available in the 2012 unfortunately. That option didn’t start until 2013 models.
On a side note, you can usually prevent subsequent ERDTT cycles (after the initial one) if you run the climate in “comfort” mode. It drains your battery faster though.
 
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