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I had trouble with my 2012 Volt (129k miles) earlier this month and it's ongoing. The first sign of trouble is that I got a reduced propulsion power message a few miles from my house and limped home to my garage. I forgot to charge it that evening, and the next day, my car took an unusually long time to start up. The "initializing... wait to shift" message was up for a long time (a minute or more) and when the system finally finished coming on, the check engine light was on and my car would not drive. I shifted to reverse and got no response from the pedal. then, I wanted to try restarting the car to fix it, but it wouldn't turn back off. I plugged the car in to the wall charger and it then allowed me to turn off the car. Tried restarting the car a few times and kept getting the same issue where the car would not turn off unless I unplugged and re-plugged in the wall charger. Connecting the wall charger would only get the orange light on the dashboard, and the light would not turn green or charge. Towed the car to the dealership, suspecting problems with the 12v battery. Dealer says they put a charger on the 12V battery and it did not fix the problem, wanted to do a diagnostic. A few days later, I get back the following service recommendation:
up until the low propulsion power message, the only trouble I was having was an intermittent bucking while stopped that was around for years (but only occasionally happened) and no-one has been able to identify that particular issue.
Car was throwing codes identified by onstar:
Any advice? Does this sound like the problem really is in the high voltage system? I thought it sounded like there was an issue with the 12 volt battery based on my research. The cost of the high volt battery fix is more than the car is currently worth and I was hoping for some insight on whether there's a better way to check if perhaps I only need a coolant change and a 12 volt battery replacement or if I really need to replace the cell? Is there a way to get help paying for the fix or a guarantee that if it doesn't work I could get my money back?
I was expecting to trade the car in for the new car I will be getting soon, but I'm stuck with only one car for the household until the chip shortage is resolved enough for my car to be built, and I need to drive distances a lot longer than an affordable uber while the other car is unavailable.
Help! Advice! Anything....
Recommended Services | Service Date | Price ("$") |
(OTHER) : section 1 of the hybrid battery, coolant; (section 1 is the front section) cell 3 has degraded causing a no charge condition. requires replacement section to correct. | 06/07/2021 | 5,921.46 |
up until the low propulsion power message, the only trouble I was having was an intermittent bucking while stopped that was around for years (but only occasionally happened) and no-one has been able to identify that particular issue.
Car was throwing codes identified by onstar:
IC - VEHICLE INTEGRATION CONTROL | P0AFA | The Lithium-Ion Battery is not performing as expected. An issue has been detected in the Hybrid Battery System which is a high voltage battery used to propel your vehicle. | Service within 7 days |
ECM - Engine System | P1E00 | The Engine and Transmission System is not performing as expected. An issue has been detected in the Engine Electrical System, including the Charging and Starting System that monitors and controls the engine starting system and 12V battery charging system. If the charge system light stays on, or comes on while driving, there may be a problem with the electrical charging system. Driving while this light is on could drain the battery. If a short distance must be driven with the light on, be sure to turn off all accessories, such as the radio and air conditioner. | Service within 7 days |
Any advice? Does this sound like the problem really is in the high voltage system? I thought it sounded like there was an issue with the 12 volt battery based on my research. The cost of the high volt battery fix is more than the car is currently worth and I was hoping for some insight on whether there's a better way to check if perhaps I only need a coolant change and a 12 volt battery replacement or if I really need to replace the cell? Is there a way to get help paying for the fix or a guarantee that if it doesn't work I could get my money back?
I was expecting to trade the car in for the new car I will be getting soon, but I'm stuck with only one car for the household until the chip shortage is resolved enough for my car to be built, and I need to drive distances a lot longer than an affordable uber while the other car is unavailable.
Help! Advice! Anything....