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2012 DIY Transmission bearing replacement
I have a 2012 volt with 130k miles. I'm experiencing the "tablesaw" noise which points to a bearing failure in the transmission. Decided to fix it myself and save labor costs; a bit of a project, though 😉
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I guess that's no longer under warranty...
Transmission?I have a 2012 volt with 130k miles. I'm experiencing the "tablesaw" noise which points to a bearing failure in the transmission. Decided to fix it myself and save labor costs; a bit of a project, though ��
Welcome Steve, how is the process?
I thought I had followed up on this topic. Apologize for not being familiar with these forums. I was able to remove the old and install the new bearing at home, saving the cost of a dealer repair. I followed a procedure found in the factory service manual and used recommended tools. I wouldn't characterize as "easy" but with the right tools and information it's not too bad. I'd be happy to provide more detail or answer questions.
Welcome to the forum and CONGRATULATIONS!I thought I had followed up on this topic. Apologize for not being familiar with these forums. I was able to remove the old and install the new bearing at home, saving the cost of a dealer repair. I followed a procedure found in the factory service manual and used recommended tools. I wouldn't characterize as "easy" but with the right tools and information it's not too bad. I'd be happy to provide more detail or answer questions.
Perhaps you could highlight the major steps you took to effect the repair to give us an idea of the complexity. How long did it take you to do? How were you able to acquire the correct tools?
Congratulations on a successful diy job.
This is only an overview of the fix and not a detailed procedure. It also assumes a knowledge of safety concerns and fluid drains (High Voltage, car support etc.):
For background info on the problem see "bearing failure FAQ" in this forum.
The main challenge is removing the transmission case cover. At first glance the cover may appear accessible. But it requires lowering the ICE/AT and loosening the frame joints.
I raised and supported the car at jack points (can't use the frame). Used a floor jack to support the ICE/AT. Removed inverter, disconnected the top AT mount, AT linkage, steering shaft and left strut. I carefully lowered ICE/AT in a position to gain access to the cover. The "frame member" directly under the case cover needs to be moved as well. This is possible only after loosening frame joints.
After removing the case cover, the puller and puller-bridge is used to ease the bearing off. It's recommended that the teflon seal (on the shaft) be replaced. I left mine alone. The seal installer tool (a hollow aluminum cylinder) it's dimensioned to fit the bearing. It's used to tap the new bearing into place. I cold soaked the bearing to make it easier. It's important to insure the bearing is parallel 0.95 - 1.2 mm.
These tools I purchased from eBay and GM: DT-47865 puller, J-45124-1 puller bridge, and J-22928-B seal installer.
It's hard to estimate the time required. I'm retired and motivated by fixed income. A lot of time was spent waiting for tools to arrive. I definitely became more familiar with the car! I can provide a photo or two if requested.
For background info on the problem see "bearing failure FAQ" in this forum.
The main challenge is removing the transmission case cover. At first glance the cover may appear accessible. But it requires lowering the ICE/AT and loosening the frame joints.
I raised and supported the car at jack points (can't use the frame). Used a floor jack to support the ICE/AT. Removed inverter, disconnected the top AT mount, AT linkage, steering shaft and left strut. I carefully lowered ICE/AT in a position to gain access to the cover. The "frame member" directly under the case cover needs to be moved as well. This is possible only after loosening frame joints.
After removing the case cover, the puller and puller-bridge is used to ease the bearing off. It's recommended that the teflon seal (on the shaft) be replaced. I left mine alone. The seal installer tool (a hollow aluminum cylinder) it's dimensioned to fit the bearing. It's used to tap the new bearing into place. I cold soaked the bearing to make it easier. It's important to insure the bearing is parallel 0.95 - 1.2 mm.
These tools I purchased from eBay and GM: DT-47865 puller, J-45124-1 puller bridge, and J-22928-B seal installer.
It's hard to estimate the time required. I'm retired and motivated by fixed income. A lot of time was spent waiting for tools to arrive. I definitely became more familiar with the car! I can provide a photo or two if requested.
Photos would be much appreciated.This is only an overview of the fix and not a detailed procedure. It also assumes a knowledge of safety concerns and fluid drains (High Voltage, car support etc.):
For background info on the problem see "bearing failure FAQ" in this forum.
The main challenge is removing the transmission case cover. At first glance the cover may appear accessible. But it requires lowering the ICE/AT and loosening the frame joints.
I raised and supported the car at jack points (can't use the frame). Used a floor jack to support the ICE/AT. Removed inverter, disconnected the top AT mount, AT linkage, steering shaft and left strut. I carefully lowered ICE/AT in a position to gain access to the cover. The "frame member" directly under the case cover needs to be moved as well. This is possible only after loosening frame joints.
After removing the case cover, the puller and puller-bridge is used to ease the bearing off. It's recommended that the teflon seal (on the shaft) be replaced. I left mine alone. The seal installer tool (a hollow aluminum cylinder) it's dimensioned to fit the bearing. It's used to tap the new bearing into place. I cold soaked the bearing to make it easier. It's important to insure the bearing is parallel 0.95 - 1.2 mm.
These tools I purchased from eBay and GM: DT-47865 puller, J-45124-1 puller bridge, and J-22928-B seal installer.
It's hard to estimate the time required. I'm retired and motivated by fixed income. A lot of time was spent waiting for tools to arrive. I definitely became more familiar with the car! I can provide a photo or two if requested.
I'm 21 years into retirement and no longer seek the challenge of doing my own repairs. Luckily, I own a Volt and it has not broken down. At 118k miles. I need shocks all around (well, maybe just the rear shocks to start). The dealer has quoted $300 for the rears and $674 for the struts, plus $99 for alignment . I might just have them do it (as opposed to my local mechanic). I have to verify that Erick Belmer's (Sparkie) claim that GM parts are guaranteed for life. If a replacement GM part fails, only labor is charged to replace it. I have to ask my dealer for verification. And, I'd like to see that in writing, too. I could just buy the rear shocks and have my mechanic do the simple job, if that's the case.
Does anyone on this list have any information about lifetime warranty on GM parts (perhaps that is on selected parts only)?
Wow, so the old bearing was made in Canada, and the new one is made in Slovakia? Cool!
I decided to answer my own question about warranty. According to this site, shocks and struts have a limited lifetime warranty if installed by a GM dealer. Also, a warranty card must have been filled out and the original receipt produced in order for the warranty to be effective.
https://www.chevrolet.com/certified-service/parts-warranty
https://www.chevrolet.com/certified-service/parts-warranty
Thank you for those photos. Comparing the two bearings, it appears that the spacer(?) for the ball bearings is missing from the original bearing. Did it disintegrate? What material was the missing spacer made of? Where did the residue end up? In the transmission filter? Inquiring minds want to know <grins>
The original bearing was made with a plastic cage for noise reduction. Unfortunately, the plastic deteriorates over time even though it is constantly bathed in transmission fluid. The new bearing which was put into late 2013-2015 Volts is made with a metal cage. The cage keeps the individual balls separated in the race. When the bearing is replaced, the fluid must be drained out, hopefully removing the residue of the old cage.Thank you for those photos. Comparing the two bearings, it appears that the spacer(?) for the ball bearings is missing from the original bearing. Did it disintegrate? What material was the missing spacer made of? Where did the residue end up? In the transmission filter? Inquiring minds want to know <grins>
Thanks for this.The original bearing was made with a plastic cage for noise reduction. Unfortunately, the plastic deteriorates over time even though it is constantly bathed in transmission fluid. The new bearing which was put into late 2013-2015 Volts is made with a metal cage. The cage keeps the individual balls separated in the race. When the bearing is replaced, the fluid must be drained out, hopefully removing the residue of the old cage.
If the plastic disintegrated over time, I would think that the plastic found its way to the filter, where it would remain until the filter is replaced.
Awesome photos! Thank you for that!!Most of the teflon cage had disintegrated. I did replace the fluid and am keeping an eye on temp via MyVolt. So far so good (fingers crossed)!
Hello Steve,do you still have these tools?As requested, a few photos. A view of the transmission cover, the specialty tools needed, a view with cover removed, and the new and old bearing side by side.
If so would you sell them to me? Please contact me at [email protected]
nobody wants to touch this job in my area. I’ll have to do it myself.
Which tools did you use, and about how long did it take? I'm about to order the bearing, but if it's easier with specific tools, I'm all for that!I thought I had followed up on this topic. Apologize for not being familiar with these forums. I was able to remove the old and install the new bearing at home, saving the cost of a dealer repair. I followed a procedure found in the factory service manual and used recommended tools. I wouldn't characterize as "easy" but with the right tools and information it's not too bad. I'd be happy to provide more detail or answer questions.
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