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Discussion Starter #1
MY2012. I know there has been an abundance of threads on this (think I've read them all), but finding different part numbers/solutions in them.

I just had new tires put on (got a great deal on Pirelli P-Zeros) and asked my mechanic to check the axle nuts. He torqued to 185fp, but said they were already pretty close. But the clicks (accelerating and stopping at low speeds) are actually much loader now. I'm taking it back next week for another issue, and thought I'd have him replace the bolts and washers this time.

Can someone supply me with the correct p/n? It sounds like the driver's front, but I might as well replace both.
Should he lubricate while in there? He'll have the tires off anyway.
Other signs issues he should look for?

TIA for anything you have.
 

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MY2012. I know there has been an abundance of threads on this (think I've read them all), but finding different part numbers/solutions in them.

I just had new tires put on (got a great deal on Pirelli P-Zeros) and asked my mechanic to check the axle nuts. He torqued to 185fp, but said they were already pretty close. But the clicks (accelerating and stopping at low speeds) are actually much loader now. I'm taking it back next week for another issue, and thought I'd have him replace the bolts and washers this time.

Can someone supply me with the correct p/n? It sounds like the driver's front, but I might as well replace both.
Should he lubricate while in there? He'll have the tires off anyway.
Other signs issues he should look for?

TIA for anything you have.

My post in the above thread lists the parts I used when I replaced mine.
 

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Just a word of caution do not use an impact wrench when installing those new nuts. They are a self locking design and take some wrenching with resistance before they make contact and then the torque comes up to spec. I did one side with the ratchet, it took a while but a success. The second side I thought I could save time with the impact. Apparently the sharp vibrations from the impact wrench cracked the exciter ring for the ABS. Opened a can of worms.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for that. My mechanic should just be able to replace the nuts and washers with the tires already off, right? I saw another thread where the Volt owner removed the bearings to do this, but I thought it was all on the outside of the bearings.
 

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Thanks for that. My mechanic should just be able to replace the nuts and washers with the tires already off, right? I saw another thread where the Volt owner removed the bearings to do this, but I thought it was all on the outside of the bearings.
The washer goes behind the bearing. I pulled my bearings off to do mine. The 3 bolts that hold the bearing on are single use torque to yield, and will need to be replaced.
 

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My bearing was a pain to remove. It was quite fused so it could not have been reused. I removed it because of bearing noise anyway
 

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You can change the axle nuts with the tires on the car and sitting on the ground. All you need to access it is to remove the center cap off the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sounds like either way I’ll have to remove the bearing if I want to replace the washer?
The old notes did torque to spec. Just trying to decide how deep to go. My mechanic will have the wheels off anyway.
Appreciating all the help!
 

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Given the cost of the single use bearing hub and caliper bracket bolts, and the amount of crud built up on the bearing hubs and PITA to remove them, I chose to order new hubs instead of rolling the dice on having to do them in the future.

Sounds like you are going to a shop, but if anyone reads this in the future... I had my old rear rotors still sitting in my scrap pile. I put them on the front hub backwards and beat it with a 5# sledge to finally get the hub free.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I don't think I want to start this process unless I'll be averting more damage down the line. I can live with the clicks, but if changing the axle nuts without messing with the bearings will get rid of the clicking, or just letting it click won't do any further damage, I think that's my choice for now.
 

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I had my CV-joints replaced a month or two ago (there was an annoying repeating noise when making tight U-turns). Now I have that annoying pop or click. You can really hear it if you roll the car forward and reverse by shifting back and forth between D and R and giving it just a little juice (and no brake pedal).
Here's an image of the CV-joint parts, but I am not sure what nut and washer people are talking about. Is that nut & washer part of the CV-joint replacement?
172182
[/URL]
 

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It’s the nut on the very outside of the axle. This is the nut which holds the axle in tension to the hub. The click we hear is the small bit of slop in the teeth engagement between axle and hub.
 

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You can change the axle nuts with the tires on the car and sitting on the ground. All you need to access it is to remove the center cap off the wheel.
NO I do not believe the 36MM nut can be done with the wheel on as the socket is too big for the hub cap hole and is now bigger than the 32MM OEM. I changed my driver side washer and nut and its been ok now 2 years since retorqing did nothing for driver side. Oddly enough I bought an extra nut for the passenger side but have not put it on yet because when the clicking comes back on that side I can torque it back to 185 and the clicking goes away for another year or so. I bought the extra nut in hopes of just having to replace the nut so it does not have to be retorqued as it seems now without washer replacment. In any event GM went to a larger size nut and the socket wont fit the hub cap hole unless you know of another method? I hope future cars GM gets this right so it no longer happens.
 

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The washer goes behind the bearing. I pulled my bearings off to do mine. The 3 bolts that hold the bearing on are single use torque to yield, and will need to be replaced.
I’m trying to resolve this issue by having a local repair shop replace the washers(#20) and nuts(#14) instead of the local Chevy dealer. I retrieved the part numbers from previous threads and poked them into GM Direct, no problem. I hit a snag, tho’, when I tried to order the torque-to-yield bolts that secure the hub (#19).

172183


GM Direct says that the part number I got from a previous thread (1570675) is not a part for a MY2013. I have been unable to coax the correct part number from GM Direct. Do you still have the P/N you used? Many thanks....
 

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MY2012. I know there has been an abundance of threads on this (think I've read them all), but finding different part numbers/solutions in them.

I just had new tires put on (got a great deal on Pirelli P-Zeros) and asked my mechanic to check the axle nuts. He torqued to 185fp, but said they were already pretty close. But the clicks (accelerating and stopping at low speeds) are actually much loader now. I'm taking it back next week for another issue, and thought I'd have him replace the bolts and washers this time.

Can someone supply me with the correct p/n? It sounds like the driver's front, but I might as well replace both.
Should he lubricate while in there? He'll have the tires off anyway.
Other signs issues he should look for?

TIA for anything you have.
I had the same clicking and it could be a Constant velocity join getting ready to go bad!
 

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I replaced the right CV joint at 80,000 and stopped the clicking sound. now my drivers side is starting to click. I don't have a shimmy in the steering wheel yet or any noise in the turns just a click noise on acceleration and stopping. It will feel like a tire going bad or out of balance if you let it go. I think the C/V’s can’t take the torque of the electric motor.
 

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I’m trying to resolve this issue by having a local repair shop replace the washers(#20) and nuts(#14) instead of the local Chevy dealer. I retrieved the part numbers from previous threads and poked them into GM Direct, no problem. I hit a snag, tho’, when I tried to order the torque-to-yield bolts that secure the hub (#19).

View attachment 172183

GM Direct says that the part number I got from a previous thread (1570675) is not a part for a MY2013. I have been unable to coax the correct part number from GM Direct. Do you still have the P/N you used? Many thanks....
11570675
 

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I posted on the other thread you replied to, but thought I would add this here since this is your thread. I had the click on my ELR on one side. Dealer wouldn't do nuts and washers, but did install and properly torque the new larger nuts. No click for a year now. It is worth trying the 36mm nuts only first before you pop the bearings out to do the washers.
 
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