Anyone know of any conversion done to remove the ICE and convert a Volt to pure electric? I am not looking to get it done, I like having no limit to my range since my days require it once in a while. But I am interested in what the Volt could do using the gas tank and engine space for more battery or storage space. Or just to lose weight for more range.
I have Googled this a few times and found nothing. Thanks.
If someone has, I haven't seen it discussed anyway.
There was one guy in eastern Europe who claimed to have added some extra Votec battery packs in the cargo area, but no details how he integrated the cooling system, the system software, etc. Looked dangerous in a crash scenario.
The gas tank doesn't occupy any space you'd put a battery in. Adding them to the nose of the car and off to one side would destroy the weight distribution. It might make really sharp right turns tough!
I assume to do added battery to Volt after the ICE is out - you'd put only the weight of the ICE back in as a battery and keeping the weigh distribution the same - the question then comes up - how much range would that add? And would it be worth it?
Other threads over the years estimated the "dead weight" to be ~500lb or so.
That's a lot of batteries, basically adding in a second set of what's already there.
Space-wise, not sure if it would fit.
But ballpark it, assume you could double the current battery capacity.
Gen1 (I doubt anyone is modding a gen2 that still has warranty )
used 65% of the battery - approx 6kWh unused (upper+lower) with the largest 17.1
Using a fixed kWh reserve, that would mean you'd have 17.1*2 = 34.2-6, or ~28kWh of usable energy.
With the EPA rating of a gen1 you'd be looking at a 99mi or so range.
Using a fixed % reserve, you'd have 34.2*65% or ~22kWh of usable energy, 79mi.
There was one guy in Russia who claimed to have added some extra Votec battery packs in the cargo area, but no details how he integrated the cooling system, the system software, etc. Looked dangerous in a crash scenario.
It's the same engine off or on.
Clutch in motor A when needed for efficiency. If it happens to be connected to the engine on the other side as well, so be it.
Also, all the Volt software that deals with the ICE component
You would obviously need to provide a dummy ECU that makes the computer think it's always there and write a program to counter EMM and FMM timers. Otherwise you'd be in perpetual PPR as it thinks the engine had a critical failure (which might also be an acceptable scenario if max 55kW and no remote starts are ok with you)
No. Why would anyone bother? For the amount of time, engineering, and expense it would take you'd be better off just getting a leaf or bolt or tesla or something similar.
Ari_c (forum member) has driven his volt all electric for well over 20k Miles. But he did it by hypermiling, disabling erdtt, and planning short trips with lots of charging stations in between.
Anyone know of any conversion done to remove the ICE and convert a Volt to pure electric? I am not looking to get it done, I like having no limit to my range since my days require it once in a while...
I have Googled this a few times and found nothing. Thanks.
You are aware, aren’t you, that when the Gen 1Volt is running in single-motor configuration in Extended Range Mode, the only function of the ICE is to run a generator to fuel the electric motor. GM refers to this as "electric-like" driving. What else would you call it when the car’s sole propulsion source is the electric motor that is now being fueled by gas-generated electricity created "as needed" instead of by grid electricity stored in the battery?
I suppose a mod to prevent a Gen 1 Volt from engaging split-power configuration in Extended Range Mode would allow one to call it a "pure electric" car...
Is it possible for the ICE to run with the shifter in N and also NOT be running the generator? (GEN II Volt) Just wondering if there is any mode or set of conditions that allows the engine to basically free wheel. Still wondering where the excess voltage goes IF the battery is full and not able to take any more charge.
If doing that, you'd probably wind up swapping the entire drivetrain for something else. Like a Spark drivetrain...)
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