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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had the 12V battery die last week in my 2012 Volt. Stone-cold dead! It started when my wife went to use it and could not unlock it. She came over to me stating the remote battery was dead. I opened the car using the key and noticed no interior lights, no start no nothing. I opened the hood and put a charger on the terminal near the master cylinder and let it sit. After about an hour, there was enough juice in it to start it and move it closer to the house without using 2 extension cords. I did get multiple errors while moving it such as service battery charging system and power steering failure. I let it charge for a day, and it did seem to work, but since the car is going on 7 years old with the original battery, I thought I would be tempting fate by not getting it replaced now. I got an AC Delco replacement and it went in with no problems at all.
At this point, since my son's volt was built at the same time, I might as well replace his at well since he is still in school studying. I was working with my son to replace his, showing him how to go about it. We took off the panel over the battery. As I looked down, I saw meter probe tip resting next to the battery. This car has never been in for any electrical problems. I bet some tech on the assembly line in Hamtramck lost it during the build or debug and it has been resting there for 6+ years.

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Yep, that's a Fluke scope or meter probe. I've used those at work for many years. They are the best, and priced accordingly.
 

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I find it ODD that the volts 200 amp 12 volt charging system would take a day to charge the 12 volt battery ?

I would just use the front to start the car.
and have some one by the back hatch to open it in case your power jump goes limp.

Then take some reading via meters or the even the meter in the charger .
 

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I find it ODD that the volts 200 amp 12 volt charging system would take a day to charge the 12 volt battery ?

I would just use the front to start the car.
and have some one by the back hatch to open it in case your power jump goes limp.

Then take some reading via meters or the even the meter in the charger .
It won't take a day. But if the 12v AGM is too low, the Volt won't charge it AT ALL, because a) it doesn't see the battery as connected and/or b) the extra care that needs to be taken to make sure that the battery doesn't overheat and rupture from being resuscitated from such a low state.
 

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It won't take a day. But if the 12v AGM is too low, the Volt won't charge it AT ALL, because a) it doesn't see the battery as connected and/or b) the extra care that needs to be taken to make sure that the battery doesn't overheat and rupture from being resuscitated from such a low state.




FWIW: The Gen1 doesn't care if the 12V AGM is connected (it will provide voltage irregardless to the positive term of the AGM whether the battery is connected or not).

There is no 'extra care' that goes into keeping the 12V AGM battery 'topped-off' by either the 14V APM (provides @14VDC tied directly to positive terminal of the AGM when the Volt is turned ON) or T18 Battery Charger (provides @12VDC tied directly to positive terminal of the AGM when the Volt is actively charging L1/L2)...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I had the 12V AGM charging for a day with a 2A slow charger. Since this battery was going on 7 years old I figured the battery would not bounce back from this event at its age.
 

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I see 15 Volts at time while driving on the 12 volt Power port bus.

I get the idea for some reports that the AGM type batteries have less shorted cell problems.
Older type of lead acid batteries had a gutter at the bottom to hold (flakes ) that fell off.

I was going to keep mine after the swap if my dealer had one more used battery
Was going to try them in my 24 Volt dc UPS system.

Was going to try for 8 years but ....
 

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OK, this forum has given me knowledge of problems with the 12V battery and mine is the original from 2013 model year. I replaced it today and was surprised by the multi-terminal fusing on the positive battery terminal. What is one to do f just one of those fuses blows? I'll bet it's a $150 part. The battery replacement was not too difficult and I did supply a continuous 12V to the open terminal...just in case but no codes appeared...yet. Now I am good for another 5-8 years.
 

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I did supply a continuous 12V to the open terminal...just in case but no codes appeared...yet. Now I am good for another 5-8 years.
Not necessary. You will have to reset the date/time. It is a good thing to allow the computers to have to reset which you won't get if you supply a constant 12V to system. 5 to 8 years is a likely range. Being a battery it could fall below that either because of external influences or manufacturing differences (or faults if you will).
 

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We are lucky to get 3 to 4 years out of a battery here in AZ. The heat kills them quicker, the Volts last longer I suspect from lower starting up loads vs and ICE.
 

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My 2012 is still on the OEM battery.
Hoping it lasts for another couple months until I sell it. 🤞🤞
 

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Do your potential buyer a big favor and just replace the battery otherwise, your buyer might be coming back with a lawyer.
That’s a little dramatic don’t you think? If a battery, a “wear” item in a vehicle, fails shortly after buying a used vehicle, the new owner can chock it up to bad luck and buy a new battery. A lawyer would be neither necessary nor useful in that case. I would not replace a battery that is working normally, simply based on age, if I were going to sell the vehicle. Disclaimer: I still have the original battery in my 2013; no plans to replace it as long as it’s still working normally.
 

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Do your potential buyer a big favor and just replace the battery otherwise, your buyer might be coming back with a lawyer.
Overdramatic much?
Used sales are typically "as-is"
 
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