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Discussion Starter #1
I had the 12V battery die last week in my 2012 Volt. Stone-cold dead! It started when my wife went to use it and could not unlock it. She came over to me stating the remote battery was dead. I opened the car using the key and noticed no interior lights, no start no nothing. I opened the hood and put a charger on the terminal near the master cylinder and let it sit. After about an hour, there was enough juice in it to start it and move it closer to the house without using 2 extension cords. I did get multiple errors while moving it such as service battery charging system and power steering failure. I let it charge for a day, and it did seem to work, but since the car is going on 7 years old with the original battery, I thought I would be tempting fate by not getting it replaced now. I got an AC Delco replacement and it went in with no problems at all.
At this point, since my son's volt was built at the same time, I might as well replace his at well since he is still in school studying. I was working with my son to replace his, showing him how to go about it. We took off the panel over the battery. As I looked down, I saw meter probe tip resting next to the battery. This car has never been in for any electrical problems. I bet some tech on the assembly line in Hamtramck lost it during the build or debug and it has been resting there for 6+ years.

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Yep, that's a Fluke scope or meter probe. I've used those at work for many years. They are the best, and priced accordingly.
 

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I find it ODD that the volts 200 amp 12 volt charging system would take a day to charge the 12 volt battery ?

I would just use the front to start the car.
and have some one by the back hatch to open it in case your power jump goes limp.

Then take some reading via meters or the even the meter in the charger .
 

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I find it ODD that the volts 200 amp 12 volt charging system would take a day to charge the 12 volt battery ?

I would just use the front to start the car.
and have some one by the back hatch to open it in case your power jump goes limp.

Then take some reading via meters or the even the meter in the charger .
It won't take a day. But if the 12v AGM is too low, the Volt won't charge it AT ALL, because a) it doesn't see the battery as connected and/or b) the extra care that needs to be taken to make sure that the battery doesn't overheat and rupture from being resuscitated from such a low state.
 

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It won't take a day. But if the 12v AGM is too low, the Volt won't charge it AT ALL, because a) it doesn't see the battery as connected and/or b) the extra care that needs to be taken to make sure that the battery doesn't overheat and rupture from being resuscitated from such a low state.




FWIW: The Gen1 doesn't care if the 12V AGM is connected (it will provide voltage irregardless to the positive term of the AGM whether the battery is connected or not).

There is no 'extra care' that goes into keeping the 12V AGM battery 'topped-off' by either the 14V APM (provides @14VDC tied directly to positive terminal of the AGM when the Volt is turned ON) or T18 Battery Charger (provides @12VDC tied directly to positive terminal of the AGM when the Volt is actively charging L1/L2)...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I had the 12V AGM charging for a day with a 2A slow charger. Since this battery was going on 7 years old I figured the battery would not bounce back from this event at its age.
 

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I see 15 Volts at time while driving on the 12 volt Power port bus.

I get the idea for some reports that the AGM type batteries have less shorted cell problems.
Older type of lead acid batteries had a gutter at the bottom to hold (flakes ) that fell off.

I was going to keep mine after the swap if my dealer had one more used battery
Was going to try them in my 24 Volt dc UPS system.

Was going to try for 8 years but ....
 
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