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2011 with P16E0 and P0AC4 and propulsion power reduced

1547 Views 22 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  tsmith
I've had two related issues for about a month now with our 2011 Chevy Volt.

Issue 1: The situation is that when the ICE kicks on after the electric range in either normal or mountain mode goes to zero, the engine seems to struggle to produce adequate power to keep the batteries sufficiently charged and maintain speed. At highway speeds (say 65mph+) the engine will start to over rev (probably 1500 higher than the normal high range of engine) in an attempt to produce more power. After a few seconds at this unusually high RPM range, a "Propulsion Power is Reduced" message appears. At this point, the car will continue to rev very high even if the speed is reduced to 25-30mph. If the car is parked and the battery is allowed to charge for several minutes, the messages go away and the car will drive normally at speeds below 65mph.

The DTC codes associated with this event are always P16E0 and P0AC4. I've also occasionally gotten a P0101 (MAF sensor) if I continue to push the engine a little longer, but I think that's a secondary result caused by the engine over revving and not the underlying issue.

Issue 2: Around the same time the above issue started, the MPG in ICE mode suddenly plummeted from 35-40 to 25-30.

P16E0 is "no torque detected," but clearly the engine is still producing some power, just not all of it is getting to the battery or the wheels. I've only found a few references to the P16E0 code and no solutions. Given the issues I'm experiencing, I'm suspecting it could be something to do with clutch 2 in the "1st generation" diagram on the attached link.


If there was an issue with clutch 2, the engine would still be capable of producing 55kw via motor A to charge the battery, but wouldn't be able to connect to the planetary gear and therefore not be able to recharge the battery using the 111kw from motor B. This would seem to explain the lack of power and mpg even when the engine seems to running normally (not loud, rough, or excessive exhaust) with no codes presenting.

Does this make sense to anyone or fit an issue you may have experienced? If it is the clutch, shouldn't I get code for that like P079B?

I've already replaced the 12v battery, replaced the spark plugs, swapped the MAF sensor, and had the dealership update the hybrid control module software. I asked dealership to look at this issue, but something got lost in communication and it later became clear that they had no clue where to begin, so I just brought it home. It runs fine in electric mode and still runs fine below 65 mph (albeit with the terrible 25-30 mpg) so a transmission replacement seems silly, but I'd still like to understand the issue. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
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On these older Volts with this type of problem it’s recommended to always use Mountain Mode to maintain that 3-4 bars of indicated charge in the guessometer. Also most older Volts are now very temperature reactive. For example my 2011 will perform basically fine per expectations (obviously showing it’s age with some degradation) at temps above 45ish so a great summer car, but at temps closer to 32-45 the ICE will run most of the time. And yes sometimes the ICE will scream with high revs. Reduced propulsion is rare for mine but then again I’m rarely on the freeway with it. Does yours behave better on 40ish mph surface streets as opposed to freeway? What you describe sounds like some version of the weak cell in the HV battery. When software sees a weak cell it fires up ICE to get some charge going into the weak cell.
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Here's what I think is likely happening: You have a weak cell and, when you let the range go to zero and then pull a high load on the battery (freeway driving), the voltage on that cell drops below what the computer thinks is acceptable. The computer, in an attempt to counteract the abuse that is being heaped upon the 12-year old battery, revs the engine to try to get the cell voltage higher. As caronjeff said above, using mountain mode is advisable with a battery that old.
BTW, with a 12-year old battery, you're courting failure to let it run down to zero. If the voltage in that cell sags too low, the computer will brick the car. Also, if you ever have a situation where the car is revving the engine after you've parked, DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, SHUT DOWN THE CAR. The reason that the car is revving is the computer is trying to get the cell voltage where it needs to be. If you shut down the car, it may never start again. Wait until the revving stops and then shut down the car (and immediately plug it in, if possible).
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Like Danno stated there’s been many reports of totally non functional Volts with the software locking out any attempt at restored function. Basically turning the car into scrap. Caused by shutting the car off while the engine is screaming and trying to get that weak cell up above its threshold. Do not shut it off with the ICE running.
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I appreciate the responses. Running in mountain mode makes a lot of sense (in hindsight) and I saw quite a few discussions about that in researching my issue. But is that issue consistent with the massive loss in the ICE MPG while I'm running in mountain mode? I'm only getting 25 mpg or less on highway and a max of 30 mpg even running at a steady 40 mph. That's a 25-30% reduction from just a few months ago.

Assuming it is a bad cell, how would that explain the "no torque detected" code? That seems to be a peculiar code to pop up if a bad cell is simply gobbling up 30% of the power of the ICE. It seems like the "no torque" code would be coming off either the transmission or maybe the hybrid control module via the lack of voltage generated, both of which would be upstream of a potential cell issue in the battery. It only throws that code when it goes into an over revving fit, but it seems like an odd code if the engine is really producing more power and all the power is making it's way to the battery with the theoretically bad cell, which is simply wasting it.

However, I guess it's sort of moot point point if it is either the battery or the transmission. It's basically really bad news vs very bad news with both issues being uneconomical to repair on 12 year car. Even swapping a used transmission myself would be hard to justify from a cost/benefit standpoint if it keeps getting 25 mpg using the ICE. That's why I brought it back from the dealership. The tech suggested he'd need "a few hours" to diagnose the issue. So at $175 an hour I'd be $500-600 deeper into a problem that I likely wouldn't pay to fix anyway.
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But is that issue consistent with the massive loss in the ICE MPG while I'm running in mountain mode? I'm only getting 25 mpg or less on highway and a max of 30 mpg even running at a steady 40 mph.
Other factors can influence MPG especially tire pressure (I run mine at 40psi), A/C use, cabin fan speed, (speed too, but 40 MPH is not a range killer).
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I appreciate the responses. Running in mountain mode makes a lot of sense (in hindsight) and I saw quite a few discussions about that in researching my issue. But is that issue consistent with the massive loss in the ICE MPG while I'm running in mountain mode? I'm only getting 25 mpg or less on highway and a max of 30 mpg even running at a steady 40 mph. That's a 25-30% reduction from just a few months ago.

Assuming it is a bad cell, how would that explain the "no torque detected" code? That seems to be a peculiar code to pop up if a bad cell is simply gobbling up 30% of the power of the ICE. It seems like the "no torque" code would be coming off either the transmission or maybe the hybrid control module via the lack of voltage generated, both of which would be upstream of a potential cell issue in the battery. It only throws that code when it goes into an over revving fit, but it seems like an odd code if the engine is really producing more power and all the power is making it's way to the battery with the theoretically bad cell, which is simply wasting it.

However, I guess it's sort of moot point point if it is either the battery or the transmission. It's basically really bad news vs very bad news with both issues being uneconomical to repair on 12 year car. Even swapping a used transmission myself would be hard to justify from a cost/benefit standpoint if it keeps getting 25 mpg using the ICE. That's why I brought it back from the dealership. The tech suggested he'd need "a few hours" to diagnose the issue. So at $175 an hour I'd be $500-600 deeper into a problem that I likely wouldn't pay to fix anyway.
My 2011 will start the ICE almost immediately after pulling out of the garage in really cold Michigan weather. And then yes the ICE screams at high revs and gobbles fuel. Exactly as you describe. After some miles, typically on surface streets, it will settle down and run as expected, coming back to idle at stops, running quiet and low revs at 30mph etc. At the present mid-May temps I have no unexpected ICE running, everything seems normal. My 12 years old somewhat degraded battery gets about 24-27 miles of range in nice weather. Are you noticing this temperature correlation as well in your performance? If your Volt is doing this even in warm weather perhaps your battery is degraded much more.
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Thanks again for the suggestions. But this is a completely separate issue from the normal factors that effect MPG, so when I say MPG declined from 35-40 to 25-30, that's the absolute best MPG I could possibly get before and after this issue arose under similar circumstances. So both ranges are with no AC, no heat, and mild temperatures. The decline from 35 to 25 mpg would be driving at approximately 65 mpg and the decline from 40 to 30 mpg would be at around 50 mph or below. Interestingly, my battery condition seems to be on the high end compared to similar aged Volts. I got 35 miles just yesterday from the battery, and I suspect I could still hit 38-40 miles in ideal conditions. Winter weather range (in Maryland) is more like 22 miles if my wife is driving with the heated seats and heat set to the maximum comfort setting, or about 28 miles if I'm driving using only the heated seat. Not sure if that completely rules out the battery as the cause, but mine seems to have degraded less than what most others have experienced. That's why I'm still leaning toward the issue being transmission or hybrid control module related.
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On these older Volts with this type of problem it’s recommended to always use Mountain Mode to maintain that 3-4 bars of indicated charge in the guessometer. Also most older Volts are now very temperature reactive. For example my 2011 will perform basically fine per expectations (obviously showing it’s age with some degradation) at temps above 45ish so a great summer car, but at temps closer to 32-45 the ICE will run most of the time.
Preconditioning helps here, quite a bit. While the cabin warming is nice, cold-soaked batteries will also get the heater turned on and an old battery at 45 or 50°F instead of 32-33 provides a LOT more amps without the voltage sagging.
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Let's open one important nut first: The Volt starts weird. It has a 55kw, 300v starter motor. If it's trying to start, and fails, it will SOUND exactly like it's started because that starter motor normally spins that engine up tooperating RPM, then adds spark and gas. And it will keep doing that for a rather long time if it needs to. This adds a lot of complication in that it's really hard to tell if the engine actually has started or is merely being cranked.

I've had two related issues for about a month now with our 2011 Chevy Volt.

Issue 1: The situation is that when the ICE kicks on after the electric range in either normal or mountain mode goes to zero, the engine seems to struggle to produce adequate power to keep the batteries sufficiently charged and maintain speed. At highway speeds (say 65mph+) the engine will start to over rev (probably 1500 higher than the normal high range of engine) in an attempt to produce more power. After a few seconds at this unusually high RPM range, a "Propulsion Power is Reduced" message appears. At this point, the car will continue to rev very high even if the speed is reduced to 25-30mph. If the car is parked and the battery is allowed to charge for several minutes, the messages go away and the car will drive normally at speeds below 65mph.

The DTC codes associated with this event are always P16E0 and P0AC4. I've also occasionally gotten a P0101 (MAF sensor) if I continue to push the engine a little longer, but I think that's a secondary result caused by the engine over revving and not the underlying issue.

Issue 2: Around the same time the above issue started, the MPG in ICE mode suddenly plummeted from 35-40 to 25-30.

P16E0 is "no torque detected," but clearly the engine is still producing some power, just not all of it is getting to the battery or the wheels. I've only found a few references to the P16E0 code and no solutions. Given the issues I'm experiencing, I'm suspecting it could be something to do with clutch 2 in the "1st generation" diagram on the attached link.


If there was an issue with clutch 2, the engine would still be capable of producing 55kw via motor A to charge the battery, but wouldn't be able to connect to the planetary gear and therefore not be able to recharge the battery using the 111kw from motor B. This would seem to explain the lack of power and mpg even when the engine seems to running normally (not loud, rough, or excessive exhaust) with no codes presenting.
Both codes show up in concert here:

Rectangle Font Parallel Number Screenshot


The other code in concert that doesn't relate to fuel injector control voltages is

P0AB9: shows up when engine is being cranked, and the speed didn't rise above the speed it's being cranked at, which is one way the car knows that the engine has actually started. It also pops up when the engine stalls. This is based on engine RPM

P16E0: That's the No Torque one: It sets under basically any condition where the engine has failed to start or stalls due to any of the normal three failures of engines: No spark, no air, no fuel. This is based on monitoring from the HPCM, which (I think) means it's not seeing juice coming out of the generator when it's expecting to.

P0AC4: Informational DTC. It sets when the Hybrid Powertrain Control Module has sent a emissions-related message. The emissions-related message could be "Hey, there's something weird happening with engine..." That is, it's supposational but logical that sending the P16E0 also sets P0AC4.

The common theme to both of these paths is that they're saying the engine ain't running, it's just cranking. You've said it eventually charges the battery enough to settle down, so it is eventually actually starting (probably when it starts revving up), but it's taking longer than it should, and the high-revving for a while after is common to a very deep discharge into The Bad Place chargewise, and the generator hurrying to get the voltage back up, possibly while still having to move the car. Which is consistent with the engine taking longer than it should to actually start.

Now WHY it might be taking longer is something I don't have enough information to guess at.
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Thanks Peter. This is some good information. Although it sounds like it's running and the rpm are gradually increasing (there's no tach in Gen 1), I can't say for certain if the engine is firing immediately. However, the check engine light and codes don't appear until AFTER the high revving incidents, which is probably a minute or two after the car switches from electric to gas power. I'd expect to see the CEL much sooner than 1-2 minutes later if the engine hasn't fired. I'm also seeing no other engine codes except for the occasional MAF code after the high revving incidents (the MAF code has tripped twice, I think, out of the 5-6 times it's gone into low propulsion mode). Ideally, I'd expect an engine code of some sort if the engine has suddenly lost the ability to produce 25-30% of its power and resulting massive loss of MPG even under normal driving. It's either burning the gas and making power or the failure to burn gas would theoretically set a injector code, emissions code, or the engine would sound unusual, or the exhaust would smell/look different. If that's too presumptuous, I'm sure someone will tell me.

Since none of those things are happening, I'm assuming the power is getting at least as far as the transmission. However, if there is a problem with the transmission, specifically where the 111kw motor is supposed to engage (via clutch 2), then the battery would only be charging at 55kw instead of the combined 165kw of both motors, and going into a undercharged status (The Bad Place) under more demanding driving conditions. That's my theory anyway. The admitted problem with that theory is that I believe clutch 2 engages at 35mph. So if I drove below 35mph I'd only be using the 55kw motor and theoretically should get close to the 35-40 mpg I've gotten historically. I'm not optimistic that I'll get to 35mpg+ even at those speeds, but I'll try to test it this weekend, to provide some additional insight.

Before I gave up at the dealership, the tech seemed inclined to spend my money chasing down the MAF issue even though it's only happened in 2 of the 5 or 6 incidents. It seems more logical to me to check the voltage coming from each motor to determine if the issue is upstream or downstream from there. I assumed that's something that the dealership could do, but maybe not.
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See post #2 in this thread for information on the "no torque detected" error code: New error code: P16E0 (and P0AC4, which is not so new)
See post #2 in this thread for information on the "no torque detected" error code: New error code: P16E0 (and P0AC4, which is not so new)
Thanks. I've read that one at least 5 times looking for any tidbit that would address my issue.
A not often talked about 'feature' is that when you pop the hood on a gen 1 (2013 at least, I understand it's all Gen 1's) while it's running on battery is the motor should immediately start and go to idle. This is in fact the ONLY time the ICE RPM's are controlled directly by the gas pedal as well. It's for mechanic diagnostics I think.

My quick and easy suggestion would be to park the Volt with some battery but not full (to allow for checking the charge capability of the ICE) on a flat driveway. Then While on but parked pop the hood and the motor should turn over and start almost immediately. Since it's parked it will be much easier to hear.

I can't recall if the 2011 have the KW gauge of how many KW the motor is creating (I have a 2013) but watch that too. It should start generating ~1KW at idle more if revved up within ~30 seconds of the ICE starting.
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Thanks. Good point. It does kick on immediately when popping the hood, so I can rule that out definitively. Unfortunately the 2011 has no KW gauge, but it might be interesting to see how efficiently the battery charges at idle (range added per gallon of gas) compared to driving at speed.
I had all of these problems with my 2011 Volt, allof the problems were solved by replacing the HV battery. Yes, the cost was high, all things concidered about $11,000. But it now runs like new.
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Thanks. Good point. It does kick on immediately when popping the hood, so I can rule that out definitively. Unfortunately the 2011 has no KW gauge, but it might be interesting to see how efficiently the battery charges at idle (range added per gallon of gas) compared to driving at speed.
We know from historical experimentation that Gen 1 will charge to their 4 bars of Mountain Mode in about 20 minutes parked with the hood open and burn about a third of a gallon in the process.
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PROBLEM SOLVED! Well this is embarrassing. But for the sake of sharing information and show appreciation for those who offered suggestions, I figure I owe an explanation.

So I was thinking back to everything that could have possibly been related to this issue and I remembered that I had changed the oil about a week before these problems presented themselves. I checked the oil level thinking maybe I overfilled it, but it was right at the bottom of the "full" hash mark. That's when I remembered adding some Lucas "stop leak" oil additive to the oil after noticing a minor valve cover leak. I've added this regularly during oil changes to another one of our cars and it's worked great. But obviously there's a huge difference a 20 year push-rod 3.8 liter and the tiny 1.4 liter in the Volt that I hadn't considered, and the Volt clearly noticed the difference in the viscosity of the oil. I probably added between 1/3 and 1/2 of a quart of Lucas Stop Leak. Even if this was an appropriate additive, which clearly it was not, I probably should have put in even less than what I had considering the oil capacity of the Volt is only 3.7 quarts. In any case, it was clearly a bad decision and the Volt responded with 20%+ worse gas mileage, occasional "low propulsion" warnings, and a "no torque" code.

After swapping the oil and filter the car immediately returned to its old gas mileage average of 35+ MPG compared to the 25-30MPG I had been seeing. I haven't attempted to recreate the "low propulsion" issue but I'm confident both issues were interrelated and the that the oil change has addressed both. I'm still a little surprised the additive had such a huge impact, but it was like glue for that little 1.4 liter engine.

A few final thoughts:

Obviously, don't use any oil stop leak products in Volt
At least in this case, bad gas mileage, "low propulsion" warnings, and "no torque" codes were related to the engine and not to a malfunctioning transmission as I had feared
"No torque" evidently doesn't mean zero torque, but just lower torque than the computer is expecting. I don't think my engine ever failed to start or stalled, which to me is the only true "no torque" scenario. But maybe the torque from the engine was so low that the clutch on the second motor in the transmission could not engage, so potentially that motor individually was experiencing a zero torque situation. I'm really just guessing here though.


Anyway, thanks everyone for the suggestions - I know of your responses required a lot of thought and effort. But they made me really go back and think about every possible cause for what I was experiencing.
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Thanks for the followup!
Maybe change the oil and filter again soon to get all that "glue" out.
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