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2011 What are the options with a busted High Voltage battery?

2509 21
2011 Volt, 66k miles.

Long story short, we died on the Interstate and the Chevy dealer we were towed to says the LI battery has a bad cell. They'll replace with a new (backordered) battery for $18k or refurb (no status on backorder) for $10k. Green Tec Auto offered to do it sooner and for less, but we're still looking at an $8k repair.

$8k is a bunch to keep an 11 year old car running, IMO. And $18k is just plain silly when you can get a Bolt new off the line for $26k. Do folks know of other options here?

We're considering:
  • Scrap it. We'll get a couple hundred bucks, I guess.
  • Sell it. Are there any good options for selling a car in such a state? Are there any well known resellers / flippers?
  • Repair it. Do those prices sound right? Heck, does it even sound right that a 2011 Volt would have a "bad cell" requiring full replacement?
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#4 GM has a kit the dealer can use to replace a bad section rather than the whole pack. Of the three sections that make up the batter pack, Section 3 seems to be the one that has a bad cell issue more than than other two. Which section has the bad cell?
 
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In today’s car market I would go the green tec auto route then sell it for $12,000 - $14,000
The GreenTec batteries come with a 3 year, unlimited mile warranty. For those who travel a lot, it may be a good deal to swap and then sell before the warranty ends. May provide 80k or so of driving which is a good chunk of life and the car may still hold some value.
 

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Sorry about your car. I think your scrap value estimate is a bit low. The car should be worth at least $2000-$3000. I know of at least one guy (in IL) that buys cars like yours with a bad battery and repairs them. And the solar power guys will take the battery and use it as is.
 

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2011 Volt, 66k miles.

Long story short, we died on the Interstate and the Chevy dealer we were towed to says the LI battery has a bad cell.
Was the battery almost at zero range when the car died? I ask because maybe "bad" cell isn't dead but merely lower than the rest and there's a chance you could clear the codes and run the car in mountain mode for a few months.
 

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Same situation here, see my "2013 Volt RIP" thread. I am going to ask the Volt tech today if the codes can be cleared and battery charged, can I just leave it in hold mode or mountain mode and drive it on gas without letting battery get discharged.

I realize a 2011 does not have hold mode but it does have mountain mode I think. Why can't it be driven like that for a long time, not just a few months?
 

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I realize a 2011 does not have hold mode but it does have mountain mode I think. Why can't it be driven like that for a long time, not just a few months?
I'm not aware of any reason it can't be driven like that longer than a few months. Maybe others do.
 

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Same situation here, see my "2013 Volt RIP" thread. I am going to ask the Volt tech today if the codes can be cleared and battery charged, can I just leave it in hold mode or mountain mode and drive it on gas without letting battery get discharged.

I realize a 2011 does not have hold mode but it does have mountain mode I think. Why can't it be driven like that for a long time, not just a few months?
Clublife (see post #6) tried that, and reported that it worked for a time, but the battery eventually gives out. It's appears to be a temporary band-aid verses a long term fix.
 

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Clublife (see post #6) tried that, and reported that it worked for a time, but the battery eventually gives out. It's appears to be a temporary band-aid verses a long term fix.
Tech could not clear the permanent P0AFA code because he couldn't get the car to turn on. He had the secret code to use to clear the code, but the car has to be ON to do that. But you can't turn the car ON because the contractors are open, isolating the HV battery. A catch-22 situation, sounds like to me.
 

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Tech could not clear the permanent P0AFA code because he couldn't get the car to turn on. He had the secret code to use to clear the code, but the car has to be ON to do that. But you can't turn the car ON because the contractors are open, isolating the HV battery. A catch-22 situation, sounds like to me.
Needs to read the manual. The car doesn't have to be ON on to clear these codes. Service mode with proper 12v support is the right way to do this.

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We're considering:
  • Scrap it. We'll get a couple hundred bucks, I guess.
Sorry about your car. I think your scrap value estimate is a bit low. The car should be worth at least $2000-$3000. I know of at least one guy (in IL) that buys cars like yours with a bad battery and repairs them. And the solar power guys will take the battery and use it as is.
Just saw the use of peddle.com for selling your car (running or not it seems)
site:www.gm-volt.com "peddle.com"
I sold my bricked 2013 Volt to Peddle.com last week and got about $4K. I even marked it as "doesn't start" and "doesn't drive".
 

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Tech could not clear the permanent P0AFA code because he couldn't get the car to turn on. He had the secret code to use to clear the code, but the car has to be ON to do that. But you can't turn the car ON because the contractors are open, isolating the HV battery. A catch-22 situation, sounds like to me.
Mine originally had issues like these but the dealership put it on “life support” with a 12V charger and was able to clear the code. But it did get towed around a few times before I went to the dealer (first to my home, then via another tow totaling 65 miles). It might have just been a low battery voltage due to all the towing that caused mine to not initially reset, who knows?
 

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Mine originally had issues like these but the dealership put it on “life support” with a 12V charger and was able to clear the code. But it did get towed around a few times before I went to the dealer (first to my home, then via another tow totaling 65 miles). It might have just been a low battery voltage due to all the towing that caused mine to not initially reset, who knows?
My 12V battery was still good, but the dealer claimed they could not clear the code because the car would not turn on due to the failed HV battery.

I found today when I was getting it ready to be towed away, that it would turn on, with no warnings or other indications on the display, other than the batttery and gas engine were both grayed out. When I first opened the door, before pressing the blue power button, it said "unable to charge" and showed a green battery at zero miles.

Once I had it turned on, I was able to delete my cell phone from phone settings, shift it to neutral, and operate the parking brake, but it never said it was ready to drive or anything like that.

Oh well, it's gone now and I have deposited their $4775 check so it's all in the past. I don't think I will ever have another car I will like as much as I liked the Volt. It was a great 8-1/2 years.
 

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Needs to read the manual. The car doesn't have to be ON on to clear these codes. Service mode with proper 12v support is the right way to do this.

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I'll bet the Volt tech who worked on my car didn't know how to do that. The 12V battery was still good even though the HV battery was dead. Who knows, we might have been able to clear the code and charge the battery back up. I'll never know now, the car is gone.
 
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