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I have been using the gas because it hasn’t been going on battery and I’ve used several tanks. How do you get it out of fuel maintenance mode? I can try running it down again and only putting a gallon or so in it but I’ve sort of already done that
To get back to this issue... in case your engine is continuing to run and this is an issue of a Fuel Maintenance Mode gone awry, there was a posting a couple of years ago where a forum member could not make the FMM end. Suspicion was that on day 1, when the "Time for an FMM, start it now Y/N?" message appeared on the center console touch screen, he responded No (or just ignored it and the message went away), and then went to the gas station and added more gas, thinking he could avoid the FMM altogether by doing that... except that once the program displays the message, it’s too late to avoid it... The following day the FMM started, and now there was more gas in the tank... You need to Start the FMM before you can END it by adding gas.

This member resolved the issue by a trip to the GM service department, where they were able to reset the FMM counter in the programming (apparently it actually counts the "average gas age" by days until the count reaches day 365, which then triggers the message to run the FMM).

IOW, if your Volt’s engine is continuing to run all the time, the GM service department can check to see if the FMM "clock" is reading day 365 or greater, and if so, can reset it.

You DO turn your car off when getting gas, don’t you? As MikeBCo mentions, another forum member in the past year or so failed to End the FMM because he left the car running when adding more gas (so the car didn’t go through certain system checks that happen upon shutdown/startup). When he turned the car off, then added more gas, and then restarted it, the FMM was ended.
 

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2011 Volt Premier (0737); 2010 Highlander Hybrid; 1993 K3500 6.5TD former ambulance
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This is from Eric on the Volt Redux Facebook page in regards to this issue.

Yes mine does the NON-ERDTT engine running in moderate cold temps too. Fairly often. It has the do with the latest software update that was the cell balancing update. The car runs the ICE when it feels it needs to so that it stresses the battery less, or something like that. It pretty much happens to all older Volts that have had the latest dealer installed update.
Huh... Maybe I shouldn't have had them do that last update!
It's really strange, both as a driving experience and as a mental puzzle to discern what the engineers were aiming for in that update. You'd think they would have had the system set a DTC code to clearly indicate why it's happening, or at least release a technical service bulletin with an explanation of the logic, so that we would not have to guess.
One of the strange behaviors occurs when driving in L and braking, while the ICE is running. Although I've read many times on this site that the ICE doesn't directly drive the wheels (except on Thursdays during a full moon), it really feels like the opposite (i.e., "engine braking") is happening when regen should be happening. I gently apply the brakes and the ICE races. Battery is fully charged at this point, so the battery is not asking for energy from the generator. My assumption is that the regen energy that can't be put into the battery (because nanny software hadn't allowed battery energy to be used for propulsion), is instead spent uselessly spinning the ICE with the wheels. This seems pretty inefficient, and my gas mileage agrees. :(
I know GM doesn't want to spend any more money on the Volt family, but I wish they would simply describe in a TSB what is happening to these older Volts, so that customers and technicians can make informed decisions on how much $$$/effort should be spent to keep our individual members of that family on the road.
Seems like too much effort and intelligence has been invested in these cars to just leave the fleet to prematurely die, due to poor/incomplete engineering decisions made many years after production. A 10 year old Volt is a terrible thing to waste.

(Blah, blah, blah...)
 

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2011 Volt Premier (0737); 2010 Highlander Hybrid; 1993 K3500 6.5TD former ambulance
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To get back to this issue... in case your engine is continuing to run and this is an issue of a Fuel Maintenance Mode gone awry, there was a posting a couple of years ago where a forum member could not make the FMM end. .
I think "FMM gone awry" is a red herring with regard to this issue. We've burned plenty of fuel and there are no FMM messages.
 

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Well whatever the GM engineers did to software at this last update, if the results are we burn some gas in cold weather, but extend battery life, I’m good with it. At this point my 2011 (178,435 miles) is like money in the bank. I spent my first $160 on it yesterday, changing the RF headlight. I haven’t spent a dime besides oil change and tires in a couple years. The thought of a $10,000 battery replacement is somewhat disturbing. How many 2011-2012 Volts have been junked or abandoned over battery failure? We read about a few here, but overall the number is probably low. I think more Volts are out of service from a fender bender accident than from battery failure. Anyone know for sure?
 

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I'm sure the temps in MI have been cold enough for ERDTT.
 

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2011 Volt Premier (0737); 2010 Highlander Hybrid; 1993 K3500 6.5TD former ambulance
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I'm sure the temps in MI have been cold enough for ERDTT.
They absolutely have, especially in the past week. 🥶
We do get ERDTT occasionally, including the message on the DIC. Mostly though, there's no message and ICE runs much longer and at higher ambient temperatures than the normal ERDTT behavior.
 

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I need some help please! I have a 2011 Volt with 125K miles on it. Recently, it decided to run primarily on gas and not the battery, despite having anywhere for 32-27 ev miles available. What needs to be done to get the vehicle to go back to running on the battery first, before switching to the gas engine like it used to.

I've taken it to the dealership and they tell me there is nothing wrong and now its in another shop and they are trying to figure it out, but they don't know what's wrong with it either. They suggested I use all the gas in the tank because it might be old. Well its been running on gas so the gas isn't old, but the old gas just stirs it, doesn't make the engine continually run on gas anyway. So I need some help if anyone knows what's going on.

Thanks Debbie
First off, there is no way to select ‘engine only’ operation on your year model. On yours, the only way to SUGGEST more ICE operation is Mountain Mode. On my 2018 that replaced my 2011, I can choose ‘Hold’ mode, but it does not hold 100%; at lower speeds the engine shuts off. You clearly have some other issue…the hood latch mentioned earlier on here is possible, but there are other possibilities.
 

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I need some help please! I have a 2011 Volt with 125K miles on it. Recently, it decided to run primarily on gas and not the battery, despite having anywhere for 32-27 ev miles available. What needs to be done to get the vehicle to go back to running on the battery first, before switching to the gas engine like it used to.

I've taken it to the dealership and they tell me there is nothing wrong and now its in another shop and they are trying to figure it out, but they don't know what's wrong with it either. They suggested I use all the gas in the tank because it might be old. Well its been running on gas so the gas isn't old, but the old gas just stirs it, doesn't make the engine continually run on gas anyway. So I need some help if anyone knows what's going on.

Thanks Debbie
most likely it is the battery heater not working. Do you have the MyGreenVolt app? It displays battery temperature. If below battery temperature is below 68/72 degrees vehicle will run ICE. My 2012 has same issue, brought vehicle to dealer who said nothing was wrong because no error codes were displayed when vehicle diagnostics were scanned. Vehicle would charge fine however would run ice when ambient temperature below 70. Of course the day I picked up vehicle it threw error codes and now won’t charge. App also shows battery voltages, all the cells are balancing when in use so I’m sure it is not the battery itself. When battery warms up with use, 15-20 miles of driving vehicle goes back to battery power. Dealer says battery needs to be replaced even though I’m 85% confident it is just the heater. GM doesn’t fix batteries, just replaces them. My vehicle has just under 155k total miles, and just over 130 EV miles. Now running it in mountain mode to keep battery with some charge. Gas mileage sucks though 29/30 mpg.
 

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First off, there is no way to select ‘engine only’ operation on your year model. On yours, the only way to SUGGEST more ICE operation is Mountain Mode. On my 2018 that replaced my 2011, I can choose ‘Hold’ mode, but it does not hold 100%; at lower speeds the engine shuts off. You clearly have some other issue…the hood latch mentioned earlier on here is possible, but there are other possibilities.
If you chose ‘engine only’ operation via leaving the battery totally discharged, too bad, so sad, you’ve ‘bricked ‘ your battery.
 

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When you add new gas, make sure the car is off. I found that if I leave it on, the car doesn't "see" the new gas
This is likely the culprit. Since the engine turns off when you're in park, it's easy to forget to shut it off. The gas cover release will not register you are adding gasoline, so the computer doesn't recalculate the average age.
 

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This is likely the culprit. Since the engine turns off when you're in park, it's easy to forget to shut it off. The gas cover release will not register you are adding gasoline, so the computer doesn't recalculate the average age.
Wont brick battery, it has SOC even when ‘depleted’. Issue is poor design/ defective design of battery heater. Write complaint GM and NHTDA, GM has a deaf ear to issue though.
 

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This is from Eric on the Volt Redux Facebook page in regards to this issue.

Yes mine does the NON-ERDTT engine running in moderate cold temps too. Fairly often. It has the do with the latest software update that was the cell balancing update. The car runs the ICE when it feels it needs to so that it stresses the battery less, or something like that. It pretty much happens to all older Volts that have had the latest dealer installed update.
When was this update?
I have not done any updates in the last 2 yrs.
 

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This is likely the culprit. Since the engine turns off when you're in park, it's easy to forget to shut it off. The gas cover release will not register you are adding gasoline, so the computer doesn't recalculate the average age.
I don't think so - I had to burn the tank as it was one yr old.
I put fresh gas in and it recognized it. Of course engine was shut off when I was fueling. Did I miss something?
 

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If you've already run the tank down to near empty and put a few gallons of fresh gas in, FMM should stop automatically.
We had the same problem with a 2018 Volt for the 1st time after 3 years. Fuel Maintenance Mode (FMM) came on and we added 5.7 gal of gas. It should have reset the FMM clock but it did NOT as it should according to Manuel. The GM dealer could not reset the clock either and we had to use up the fuel in the tank and and then added 2 gals. Once the Low Fuel Warning came on we drove for another 10-20 miles to make sure that the gas tank was close to empty. Not sure how low the fuel has to be for the FMM clock to be reset.
 

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I need some help please! I have a 2011 Volt with 125K miles on it. Recently, it decided to run primarily on gas and not the battery, despite having anywhere for 32-27 ev miles available. What needs to be done to get the vehicle to go back to running on the battery first, before switching to the gas engine like it used to.

I've taken it to the dealership and they tell me there is nothing wrong and now its in another shop and they are trying to figure it out, but they don't know what's wrong with it either. They suggested I use all the gas in the tank because it might be old. Well its been running on gas so the gas isn't old, but the old gas just stirs it, doesn't make the engine continually run on gas anyway. So I need some help if anyone knows what's going on.

Thanks Debbie
Please ensure that your dealer is actually qualified to diagnose the problem is actual work on Volts. I would suggest that you get an OBD2, an inexpensive investment and plug it in to the diagnostic port under the dashboard near the steering wheel. It's winter and batteries don't like winter and may not be able to retain a charge. Don't but a battery from your dealer, instead look at the same battery with the same specs, and dimensions, but not necessarily for a Volt. Old gas? Please look at your manual. You can get download a free manual from the GM site.
 

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Interesting about the software update giving increased protection to the battery. combine that with 11 year old battery and cold temps seems to be the problem, especially when it is not letting the regen charge the battery and causing the ICE to rev up when decelerating, like down shifting to slow down a regular ICE car.
Sense this is mainly happening in the cooler weather when the extra heat from the ICE can be used, it is not a big problem for me.
 
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