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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2011 Chevy volt 115,000 miles bought at towing auction and probably
Sat for a year, fully charged the battery with voltec charger, installed new 12 v battery, new plugs, new coil pack filled & filled with gas. Car drove on electric and the gas engine never started, and said engine unavailable and then loss of propulsion. Felt the engine and its cold still after 10 miles drive . I’m in Texas and it’s 90 degrees outside, any suggestions I’m new to the volt, o yea and it didn’t come with keys so I reprogrammed one from the Chevy house they cut me, thanks for your time
 

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We'd need, at minimum, a list of every OBDII code showing, and if you got a Propulsion Power Reduced message, there will be at minimum about four different ones and probably closer to a dozen.

Be aware that it's both possible and likely that the car ended up in the auction because someone decided it was unreasonably expensive to fix.
 

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Easy first check: car ON, open the hood. Engine should start. Get back to us...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok pulled codes with my obd reader I bought,
P-1B0F
07A5
0AB9
1B03
0A40
1B0F
Ok I made sure the NEW 12v acid battery I put in is fully charged on trickle charger all night with battery disconnected, I tried to start car and it just turns the engine over some, I can see belt turning when doing it but then it says Engine not available loss of propulsion, even if I try opening the hood, the car is clean/flawless around the engine with no leaks, the car will drive on electricity fine just not very far, any help is appreciated, I’m mechanically inclined and don’t know much else to do, the Chevy house said the transmission is bad and wanted $9000+, all they did is hook it to gm computer and pushed it out the door after
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
We'd need, at minimum, a list of every OBDII code showing, and if you got a Propulsion Power Reduced message, there will be at minimum about four different ones and probably closer to a dozen.

Be aware that it's both possible and likely that the car ended up in the auction because someone decided it was unreasonably expensive to fix.
Ok pulled codes with my obd reader I bought,
P-1B0F
07A5
0AB9
1B03
0A40
1B0F
Ok I made sure the NEW 12v acid battery I put in is fully charged on trickle charger all night with battery disconnected, I tried to start car and it just turns the engine over some, I can see belt turning when doing it but then it says Engine not available loss of propulsion, even if I try opening the hood, the car is clean/flawless around the engine with no leaks, the car will drive on electricity fine just not very far, any help is appreciated, I’m mechanically inclined and don’t know much else to do, the Chevy house said the transmission is bad and wanted $9000+, all they did is hook it to gm computer and pushed it out the door after
 

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DTC P1B0F: Drive Motor 1 Position Learn Incorrect
DTC P07A5: Transmission Clutch 2 Stuck On
DTC P0AB9: Hybrid/EV System Performance
DTC P1B03: Drive Motor 1 Position Sensor Circuit Tracking Lost
DTC P0A40: Drive Motor 1 Position Sensor Performance
 

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None of your codes have anything to do with the ICE, put the valve cover back on. Check/change oil.

If it were mine:
  • double check to make sure you bought the correct 12V battery
  • clear all codes and see what comes back (and see if engine now starts)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
None of your codes have anything to do with the ICE, put the valve cover back on. Check/change oil.

If it were mine:
  • double check to make sure you bought the correct 12V battery
  • clear all codes and see what comes back (and see if engine now starts)
I put a diehard gold 47h5
650 cold crank
100 reserve checked all terminals and tight
 

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Okay, wild guess because I Are Not Voltec Tech, I just have a copy of the service manual.

DTC P1B0F: Drive Motor 1 Position Learn Incorrect
DTC P07A5: Transmission Clutch 2 Stuck On
DTC P0AB9: Hybrid/EV System Performance
DTC P1B03: Drive Motor 1 Position Sensor Circuit Tracking Lost
DTC P0A40: Drive Motor 1 Position Sensor Performance
P1B03 is probably the critical one here, and the steps for this are a ten-step process of verifying part of the transmission control wiring harness, followed by a four-step checklist testing of the sensor itself, and each of those involves a jumper harness being attached that the manual doesn't detail, but refers to connections on, so what on the car it's checking, I can't say. It could easily be corroded wires causing this. It could also be "replace a motor-generator" time, depending on what's found, because the sensors don't seem to be independently replaceable.

P07A5 MAY indicate something as simple as "the transmission fluid went somewhere else and isn't there to help the MG-A clutch to do its thing" but I'm not confident that it would necessarily cause the P1B03.

Everything else looks consequential to the P1B03.
 

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If you're serious about working the problem yourself, I would strongly recommend buying a subscription to the service manual. It will prove to be invaluable instead of trying things to see what sticks.
 

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I put a diehard gold 47h5
If not AGM, it is wrong battery. It has to be AGM. Cold crank amperage does not count, 12V battery is never going to crank anything.
Re: rest of issues, your engine is probably OK but you seem to have resolver issue when one of electrical motors is trying to start the ICE engine.
 

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I'd like to point out that although a liquid lead-acid battery is not the one to use when the car is properly working and drivable, it CAN be used for trouble-shooting purposes, as long as it has the current capacity to fire up the computers. Heck, people use little portable battery packs to "jump start" a flat battery condition. When the OP gets the car to run properly, he should invest in the AGM battery for safe driving.

Also, the Volt charging system is designed for an AGM battery to charge, not a liquid lead-acid battery that has different charge parameters. So, the OP definitely should get the AGM when finished with trouble-shooting.
 
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Try this:

1) Drive to a safe location nearby.

1.5) Shift into Park.

2) Push the power button without pressing the brake pedal. (Do not call OnStar or use your hazard lights during this brief process)

3) Open and close the driver's door.

4) Wait until the overhead dome lights extinguish. (about 20 seconds)

5) Start the vehicle again.

from this thread: Check engine light on. Engine will not start. Vehicle...
 

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2011 Chevy volt 115,000 miles bought at towing auction and probably
Sat for a year, fully charged the battery with voltec charger, installed new 12 v battery, new plugs, new coil pack filled & filled with gas. Car drove on electric and the gas engine never started, and said engine unavailable and then loss of propulsion. Felt the engine and its cold still after 10 miles drive . I’m in Texas and it’s 90 degrees outside, any suggestions I’m new to the volt, o yea and it didn’t come with keys so I reprogrammed one from the Chevy house they cut me, thanks for your time
I am going to take a wild guess. The most logical problem is the MGU-A has shorted or open windings. Probably one of the phases shorted to ground from over heating. MGU-A is the smaller of the two motor/generator units in the transmission/electric drive unit. MGU-B is the big traction motor and does all the high torque driving of the front wheels. MGU-A is the smaller motor, it is responsible for turning over and starting the ICE, and generating electricity when the ICE is running. Sometimes, MGU-A also combines with MGU-B for providing power to the wheels. If one of the 3 winding phases are shorted to ground, MG–A will not be able to start the ICE.

Another possibility, like someone else said, is a problem for the MGU-A clutch to operate properly connected to the ICE>. This could be from lack of transmission fluid, bad valvue body, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
OK fellas thanks for everybody’s input, I bought/installed the proper AGM battery after I charged it up, car still does the same thing try’s to start the gas engine turns over couple times and then says engine not available service soon, loss propulsion
Codes are
p-0AB9
1B03
0A40
1B0F
07A5
FYI ——Engine oil looks good, all fluids to best of my knowledge are at proper levels
 

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Did you try the procedure GM recommended that I pasted above (waiting for dome lights to go out)?
The only other thing I've seen about code POAB9 is this bulletin: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/SB-10070503-0335.pdf
It looks like you've already done everything in that bulletin except check the two ground points, so maybe check them.
Good luck and please let us know if you get this fixed.
 

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Re-reading your posts, you said that the dealership said the transmission was the problem. Also, you have code P07A5, which indicates that a clutch is stuck. Is it possible that the fault is the clutch that connects MG-A to the ICE? Watch the video below at the 12 minute and 24 minute marks.

 
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