GM Volt Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Year: 2011
Miles: 122,000
Miles on full charge: 35

So I started taking my car on long road trips, from San Francisco to Los Angeles. I average around 37 MPG going 70 MPH which i feel is pretty normal. I usually run Mountain Mode (hold) often to get energy for the various grades.

I was driving to Mammoth Lakes, CA from Los Angeles, CA, and drove up highway 395. The car climbed a steep 2,000 foot grade (6,000 --> 8,000 feet). I did not have enough juice saved from Mountain Mode - I did not prepare. The car went into Low Propulsion Mode, and was taxed a lot. It smelled like coolant was leaking or something - no battery, high elevation, and a grade is not great for a Volt. I finally got us to our destination about 30 more minutes away. I stopped at the liquor store to get a beer and stuff for camping, and came back out and the car was completely dead. Key fob not responding, door locks, etc.. Luckily the car was unlocked, and I opened all the doors and stuff moving around and the car finally came back alive. It has done this about 3 times times now.

What would cause the car to go completely dead, especially after long drives?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Dying/dead 12V battery. You still on the original? Have your battery load tested ASAP.
I bought the car in January and took it to the dealer for a full inspection. They did not point out battery load, but I'm nearly positive that was it. Was nice to hear it from you as well. I ordered a new 47grade battery for $165 USD so pretty good deal. I'm thinking it does it on long drives because it gets drained? Otherwise, the car never does it when I'm driving around locally. I also replaced my key fob battery as that died too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,945 Posts
I bought the car in January and took it to the dealer for a full inspection. They did not point out battery load, but I'm nearly positive that was it. Was nice to hear it from you as well. I ordered a new 47grade battery for $165 USD so pretty good deal. I'm thinking it does it on long drives because it gets drained? Otherwise, the car never does it when I'm driving around locally. I also replaced my key fob battery as that died too.
It shouldn't get drained, but I'd expect a 2011 to be likely on its third 12v by now. The reason for the suggestion is that a weak 12v will be unable to maintain proper voltage during a startup and that can cause glitchy operation in all kinds of unpredictable ways. So the cheap way to rule out random weirdness and focus on actual operational problems is that if the 12v is old, replace it. It could be still fine and not solve the problem, but doing that has solved so many problems that we've just kind of accepted that it's worth a go.

But that does lead us to other questions: how old is the battery in the key? When the car was dead, did the dome light come on when you opened the door? Did the screens wake up? When did you notice that the car was dead and how far into the "get in, click the belt, start up, and drive away" process before you started the "move things around instead" step?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I'm not sure how old either battery is because I bought the car used. When the car was dead, I mean it was dead. Nothing opens, nothing was on, no lights or anything. Luckily the doors were unlocked already. When I waited 10 minutes and opened doors and moving stuff it suddenly turned back on, dash included. It then proceeded to do some weird thing where i could put it in gear but it didn't go. I shut off once, restarted and it drove fine ever since.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
New battery is in, we'll see how it does on the next long drive.

Looking at my old battery - is this the original from 2011? The code is "1D06A44" on the bottom right of the battery shown. I can't find out what year/month it's from.


170684
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
From doing a Google search, it looks like it could also be stamped into the top of the terminal. What is stamped into the top of the negative terminal? First letter for month (A=January, B=February, etc) and second number for year (1=2011, 2=2012, etc). Otherwise most entries say the the number you reference should start with a letter then a number and uses the same code above. If you disregard the leading 1 (?) and went with D0, that would be April 2010. I have no idea if that’s correct though.

I’m still on my original battery in my 2013, I’ve kind of been holding my breath waiting for it to die. Knowing that it can make lots of weird things happen with the Volt doesn’t help any. And I’m too cheap to replace it now if it’s still working.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top