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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've been struggling with the CEL that thinks the coolant level is low for months on and off, I forget the actual code. I read about it here and the bypass resistor that folks used to fix it.

I made my own and tried it and it seemed to work, however on a recent long trip it came back, I reset and then a couple of days my car went into limp mode.

I did some more digging and decided to put a new pigtail harness in for that sensor. Amazon had the part PN 13586114

Today I changed it out, to my surprise the old pigtail was wired in to a very high standard, soldered very neatly and heatshrink used. I was starting to think it might have been something else.

When I finished the job I examined the old one, and found the fault. Using a multimeter and wiggling it I could make an open circuit on the black wire. It looks like the old wiring is much smaller gauge and more at risk of vibration fatigue, the new one is much more beefy. In addition I used a long service loop of wire and added much more strain relief, protection and heat resistant kapton tape.

When I removed the connectors from the plastic the white wire came out fine, the black one failed. So it looks like it broken inside.

Thought this might be helpful for others in the future. I have one more annoying bug to fix, which is a CEL caused by out of range engine air intake sensor. Does anyone know the fix for that? perhaps more bad wiring??

FYI my car is 2011 with 120600 miles on the clock
 

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is that the one that goes into the battery coolant level sensor or the other end of the harness ?

I thought I saw an Amazon part on the level sensor as well.

I looked at my harness from the 2011-2012 volt service to add coolant sensor and it too is looking bad.

I though WOT said pulling that out will trigger the codes and may need a dealer re-program and code setting.
( unless we pull the 12 volt battery first ?? )

JUST a note : when they added the wires from the collant level sensor into the volt computer input for the 2011/2012 volt
did they connect to unused inputs or re-position/disable another input. I can't find the old link.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
is that the one that goes into the battery coolant level sensor or the other end of the harness ?

I thought I saw an Amazon part on the level sensor as well.

I looked at my harness from the 2011-2012 volt service to add coolant sensor and it too is looking bad.

I though WOT said pulling that out will trigger the codes and may need a dealer re-program and code setting.
( unless we pull the 12 volt battery first ?? )

JUST a note : when they added the wires from the collant level sensor into the volt computer input for the 2011/2012 volt
did they connect to unused inputs or re-position/disable another input. I can't find the old link.
I disconnected the battery before the repair, its not a good idea to solder a harness with the battery connected. I also have a OBD dongle to reset CEL's.

I don't know where exactly they spliced in the wires, but one end is soldered or crimped the other is the connector that plugs into the reed switch sensor.
 

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I did some more digging and decided to put a new pigtail harness in for that sensor. Amazon had the part PN 13586114

Today I changed it out, to my surprise the old pigtail was wired in to a very high standard, soldered very neatly and heatshrink used. I was starting to think it might have been something else.
I know this is an old post, but was it difficult to remove and replace this harness? It seems to be attached fairly low in a tight space for soldering, et c.

I just replaced my sensor to no relief. Only have P1FFF and P0AA6, so am hoping it's the harness instead of the battery heater inside.
 
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