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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So GM is not openly advertising the Volt as eligible for the 20% off special it is still running for most leftover '16 Chevy models, but remaining '16 Volts are eligible for the 20% off deal!

I plugged in various zip codes searching for leftover '16s, and for all but 1 unit, they were marked as a "Chevy Summer Sell Down" tag and had a 20% off rebate showing. The 1 unit I found that didn't have the special tag was still advertised as having the 20% discount on the dealer's website, so odds are all '16s still in stock are eligible.

So stop hunting Pokemon and start hunting the few '16s left if you want to score a killer deal!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If someone can haggle at least $3,500 off MSRP prior to the 20% rebate, that'd be $24k before the $7.5k fed credit....or just under $17k before TTL after the credit. For a brand new Volt. Then take off any state incentives...really is a no brainer.
 

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How can I haggle the extra MSRP off prior to the 20%? Dealer's like that's it, nothing on top and the last one, take or leave. What's the come back line? Hassle other dealers with leftover 16 for a competing offer? Please share..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How can I haggle the extra MSRP off prior to the 20%? Dealer's like that's it, nothing on top and the last one, take or leave. What's the come back line? Hassle other dealers with leftover 16 for a competing offer? Please share..
Make a Truecar account with a throwaway email and fake name, plug in zip codes till you can find a dealer that is advertising a ~$3,500 dealer discount (even better if it is the dealership that has the Volt you want), then email that to them and go "I know you guys are giving a $X,XXX Truecar discount....give me the same discount, then another $299 on top since you guys aren't getting charged the Truecar finder's fee (this is why you make a fake account), and we should have a deal".
 

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Make a Truecar account with a throwaway email and fake name, plug in zip codes till you can find a dealer that is advertising a ~$3,500 dealer discount (even better if it is the dealership that has the Volt you want), then email that to them and go "I know you guys are giving a $X,XXX Truecar discount....give me the same discount, then another $299 on top since you guys aren't getting charged the Truecar finder's fee (this is why you make a fake account), and we should have a deal".
I'm not quite follow the truecar thing. I went to the site, and logged in as USAA user, there are 3 dealers that are certified, the one has what I want being one of them.

Site asked me to configure a car, I plug in 2016 volt premier, and they matched a few in the inventory at the other 2 dealers, not the same color though, also no 20% off tag shown at dealer's site. They had this listed:
Guaranteed Savings USAA Certified Dealer MSRP Discount -$2,089
2016 Chevrolet Volt Incremental Consumer Cash -$1,000
Guaranteed Savings -$3,089

Is this what you referred to or not?

Since dealer I want to go does not have instant match (they have last one volt). They can just say go to the other dealer with the dealer discount but no 20% off. What's the comeback line?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm not quite follow the truecar thing. I went to the site, and logged in as USAA user, there are 3 dealers that are certified, the one has what I want being one of them.

Site asked me to configure a car, I plug in 2016 volt premier, and they matched a few in the inventory at the other 2 dealers, not the same color though, also no 20% off tag shown at dealer's site. They had this listed:
Guaranteed Savings USAA Certified Dealer MSRP Discount -$2,089
2016 Chevrolet Volt Incremental Consumer Cash -$1,000
Guaranteed Savings -$3,089

Is this what you referred to or not?
Disregard the incentives Truecar gives. It doesn't show the 20% off rebate. The thing you are looking to get is the "Dealer MSRP Discount". No other incentives apply with the 20% rebate except for GM card earnings, so you can ignore them.

I was saying use a fake Truecar account so the dealership won't have to pay the Truecar fee of $299. Once you submit your info to Truecar, it locks in a guaranteed sale price, but it also locks the dealer into having to pay Truecar $299 if the dealership that has the Volt you want was also one of the dealers that received your Truecar request. And guess who has to pay for that Truecar fee in the end? The customer.
 

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OK, so I did the dumb thing to plug in my usaa membership (so it has my name)? But the dealer I'm talking to does not show a match, the other one has a different color 78% match and showing that magic term "usaa certified dealer discount". Since the dealer I want to go to does not have any match shown in true car, and if they indeed have one for sale, they got a way with the true car fee i suppose?

So I can print some PDF of that quote from the other dealer and using your script?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK, so I did the dumb thing to plug in my usaa membership (so it has my name)? But the dealer I'm talking to does not show a match, the other one has a different color 78% match and showing that magic term "usaa certified dealer discount".

So I can print some PDF of that quote from the other dealer and using your script?
Yeah, a screenshot or printout should be fine. Be aware that the Truecar dealer discount should be the MINIMUM discount you can receive. The dealer chose to make that discount available to any Truecar user (so that is not bottom of the barrel). Suffice to say there should still be room to wiggle outside of the $299 Truecar fee if you really want to drive in the screws.

From my initial research, it seems $2k is about the max I am seeing for a Truecar certified dealer discount (including USAA savings).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
they do not budge, saying 20% off or truecar discount.
Whelp, they are being greedy then. I guess they think they can find a buyer than will take just the 20% off MSRP deal. Which they very might be able to, unfortunately.

If somehow that Volt is still around towards the end of the month, I bet they'll reach out to you. :p
 

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When we bought our 2016 Volt LTZ last month at Wilsonvile Chevrolet, just south of Portland Oregon. We got the 20% off MSRP plus the dealership offered an additional $3,000 off. The total discount was over $11,000. With the Fed Tax Credit the price is less than
$22,000. Hard to believe with all the technology of the Volt for the price of a Civic...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
People are suggesting I need to jump on it despite that tho. Thoughts?
I will say that '16s were flying out of dealerships in the DC area when the initial 20% sale started. It was a feeding frenzy.

If you really want a '16, and the base 20% discount is good enough for you, you should probably jump on it.

Ask them nicely if you can at least get a small discount ($500-$1k). Say you'll give them a guaranteed perfect CSI survey and can be in today to seal the deal if they are willing to give an additional, tiny price break.
 

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I will say that '16s were flying out of dealerships in the DC area when the initial 20% sale started. It was a feeding frenzy.

If you really want a '16, and the base 20% discount is good enough for you, you should probably jump on it.

Ask them nicely if you can at least get a small discount ($500-$1k). Say you'll give them a guaranteed perfect CSI survey and can be in today to seal the deal if they are willing to give an additional, tiny price break.
Well, I'm OK with 16 or 17. It's just currently I don't feel 17 is that much different, and I'm getting about 3k-5k off MSRP (not knowing the turecar discount tactics though) from quotes I got locally, just not my favorite color. I would say, I'm willing to pay a little bit more for a 17, so if in a month or two, I can get 6k-7k off MSRP on a 17, this 20% off on 16 (without anything else) might not be that intriguing (plus I have to venture all the way for ~170mile for it, really not that comfortable for a first time buyer).

Plus, I might be able to get 1k PO and 500 Farm Bureau offer next month (Based on this dealer's attitude now, I don't feel I can use those on top of 20% off even if they are available).

I think I will keep my search while keeping an eye on this one, unless people can tell me that my expectation for a $xx off MSRP on 17 model is not feasible at all.
 

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Well, I'm OK with 16 or 17. It's just currently I don't feel 17 is that much different, and I'm getting about 3k-5k off MSRP (not knowing the turecar discount tactics though) from quotes I got locally, just not my favorite color. I would say, I'm willing to pay a little bit more for a 17, so if in a month or two, I can get 6k-7k off MSRP on a 17, this 20% off on 16 (without anything else) might not be that intriguing (plus I have to venture all the way for ~170mile for it, really not that comfortable for a first time buyer).

Plus, I might be able to get 1k PO and 500 Farm Bureau offer next month (Based on this dealer's attitude now, I don't feel I can use those on top of 20% off even if they are available).

I think I will keep my search while keeping an eye on this one, unless people can tell me that my expectation for a $xx off MSRP on 17 model is not feasible at all.
Certainly here in Canada expecting 6-7k off MSRP on a 2017 is very unrealistic...actually 6-7 K USD would be closer to 10K CDN, so its really a great deal IMO....yes, others got an additional 3k or so off, but I think this dealer is playing it smart....I'm pretty sure the car wont be around until the end of the month, so its really up to you if you want to wait and risk paying a little more IF you can get a good deal on a 2017, or paying A LOT more if you cant....

One other thing to consider is what your time to hunt down that 2017 is worth....lets just say you do end up getting to the same 20% MSRP off level by stacking a PO + Farm Bureau + dealer discount (which I think is very unlikely), how much of your time will it take for you to find that deal? 10 hours? 100 hours? etc....

Now the question of 2016 vs 2017 really comes down to very minor differences. The 2017 has a bit more information on the energy usage screen, has the options for ACC (which I'm assuming you arent interested in since that would be a negative against the 2016....). 2017 also supports android auto 'out of the box', but you can update the 2016 for this support as well, so its a wash.

Honestly I think the major motivator for a 2017 would be the car 'seems' one year newer if you ever go to trade it in or re-sell it in 3-5 years....if you aren't planning on doing that and the 2016 has the options you want, I say save your time and buy it. You could take a risk and try and hold out for another 500-1000 off as Bro1999 suggests, and I think its worth trying for sure.

Tell them you're ready to deal now if they do that, but if they say no then weigh your time carefully. I used to be the type that would hunt and hunt for the 'best deal' until I realized that I was spending double the time to save maybe 5%....kind of like driving to the 'out of the way' gas station to save a few pennies per gallon. If you are saving $0.20 per fill up by doing this is it really worth the extra time you spend versus just going to the closer gas station?.....

Hopefully the forum users here understand my analogy....most of us havent seen a gas station in a long, long time and may forget what travelling to one is like....I certainly have :)

Edit: Oh, and I dont think the dealer has a choice whether to honor the PO or not....both the 20% off and PO come from GM, so it doesn't 'cost' the dealer anything....as long as your PO is valid they have to honor it from what I understand.....
 

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You do have a very good point of evaluate the hidden cost of extra hunting/traveling/waiting (my weakpoint that I want to improve as well). And I also agree that 2017 has minor updates (ACC being the major one) compare to the 2016, and that's the reason I have been waiting for the 16 clearance.

But currently, I got a quote (local) for a 2017 silver premier with ACC ($40000 msrp, and $34700 + tax+freight+fee), if dealer are happily accept PO and Farm bureau offer for 1.5k off, that's close to 6.5k off MSRP. Maybe bro1999's true car tactics work wonders and may knock off 1k, that's 7.5k off. Compared to the 8k off this 16 premier (nothing else on top), I just could not justify the extra time/travel/hassle to deal with a unknown, remote dealer.

Did I get it all wrong? Or are you guys talking about $XXXX of MSRP is the OTD price (with about $1k freight+fee, and tax?). I do understand the extra cost of me emailing around and such, but I actually still have another month or two to pull the trigger. Please correct me if I'm wrong, I could very well be misunderstanding the whole process... Much appreciate it in advance.
 

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You do have a very good point of evaluate the hidden cost of extra hunting/traveling/waiting (my weakpoint that I want to improve as well). And I also agree that 2017 has minor updates (ACC being the major one) compare to the 2016, and that's the reason I have been waiting for the 16 clearance.

But currently, I got a quote (local) for a 2017 silver premier with ACC ($40000 msrp, and $34700 + tax+freight+fee), if dealer are happily accept PO and Farm bureau offer for 1.5k off, that's close to 6.5k off MSRP. Maybe bro1999's true car tactics work wonders and may knock off 1k, that's 7.5k off. Compared to the 8k off this 16 premier (nothing else on top), I just could not justify the extra time/travel/hassle to deal with a unknown, remote dealer.

Did I get it all wrong? Or are you guys talking about $XXXX of MSRP is the OTD price (with about $1k freight+fee, and tax?). I do understand the extra cost of me emailing around and such, but I actually still have another month or two to pull the trigger. Please correct me if I'm wrong, I could very well be misunderstanding the whole process... Much appreciate it in advance.

Hmmmm, well that 2017 you mentioned kind of knocks out my point about doing extra leg work....since you already have the offer, and I think your math/logic sounds correct....basically you have two options:

1. 2016 with 20% off MSRP which is basically $8k in 'value'
2. 2017 with $5300 off MSRP from dealer (wow, wish Canadian dealers would offer that!) + 1k PO + $? Farm (guessing its 300?) = $6500 off....if you can get more, then gravy, but lets assume that's all you can get off this 2017....

So, my questions to you then would be:

1. Is this the package you want in the car/colour?
2. Is this dealer closer to you/easier for you to pick up the car? That factors into the 'your time' cost calculation....
3. Is the new dealer nicer/has better reviews/more deserving of your money based off how they are interacting with you?

If question 1 is 'yes' and question 2 is 'significantly closer' and question 3 is 'yes', then I'm changing my vote and telling you buy the 2017 :)

I still am pretty sure your PO should apply to the 2016....push the dealer on this and if they say no, you have the 2017 as a fallback.

Also, you are reading this correctly RE: freight/licensing, etc fees. Depending on how the discount is structured it may be before/after tax, but that would be in the paperwork.....but essentially the numbers I put above would be how I would calculate the difference between the two cars and make my judgement....
 

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Good to know and thanks so much for spending your time replying me in great details.

The answers to your question is,
1. no
2. yes, they are local, 20min away.
3. Maybe. People have recommended them here in the forum, while the one has 2016, never saw it being mentioned.

I want a blue color + leather (ACC is a bonus), this one is a sliver. That's why I'm still working with local dealers to see who has a blue+leather+acc. But again, I'm color blind when the price is right.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Only other incentive that will stack with the 20% rebate is GM card earnings. No private offer, farm bureau, or any other incentive other than what the dealer is willing to take off in addition to the 20%.

If the dealer won't budge off the 20% rebate as the only discount, it may very well be worth simply waiting a little bit for a '17. $1k private offer + $500 farm bureau rebate will be able to stack with the $1k purchase rebate currently being offered on '17s. Factor in a $3-4k dealer discount, and you are looking at 5.5-6.5k as the total discount, or very close to the 20% off rebate of 16s. Plus you get a 1 year newer car, which matters for resale. And you'll be able to find a car that likely has all the options you want.
 
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