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Just brought my new 2017 Volt LT home. When I plugged it in (110) it calculated about 20 hours to full charge. That's a far cry from the 10-14 claim. Since my daily commute is >50 miles I was counting on charging over night and started the day with a full charge. At 20 hours I'll never be more than ~50% charged.

Is this normal? Are there settings I should be aware of that affect charge time? I currently rent my home so I'm not going to install a 240. I'd be fine with the 110 if the 10-14 hr range were accurate.

Thanks.
 

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The default charge rate is 8 amps. There are settings in the car available to get 12 amps, which gets you the shorter charge time.
This is correct. Please refer to page 215 & 119 of your 2017 Volt manual for this information.
 

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Thank you. Being a newbie could you tell me where to find that? Also, does that create any load or safety issues with my home circuits?
Only a qualified electrician can answer the second part of that question specifically relating to YOUR home system. That won't stop some from replying however :)
 

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As recommende on many posts here, have a dedicated installation for your Chevy Volt. As with any large appliance, it deserved its own circuit, breaker, wiring, and outlet. The L1 EVSE can be used on mat common 120 VAC outlets, but the 8 A current is to protect the circuit from overloading. If you must do better, install a dedicated 240 VAC circuit and get a Level 2 EVSE. In my case I did this, I built my EVSE from a kit (see my signature), yet I have no EV at all! Do the correct thng and protect your new mobile "appliance"!
 

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Note, if you have a dedicated 120V/12a circuit, you can use the GPS in the car to default that one location so you don't have to go into the menu every time and select 12a charging. Note when you plug in at any other location, you've got to go into the Charge settings (the green leafy icon on the infotainment system) and select 12a (and agree to the CYA warning screen from Chevy) before you shut off the car and plug it in.
 

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Thank you. Being a newbie could you tell me where to find that? Also, does that create any load or safety issues with my home circuits?
You should be using a dedicated outlet with nothing else plugged into it or other outlets on the same circuit. Monitor the outlet and car closely after you start charging for a few hours to make sure that everything looks good and doesn't get too hot. If you need to use an extension cord, make sure it's 12 AWG or better (e.g. lower numbers such as 10 AWG). When in doubt, contact a qualified electrician for advice :D.

Enjoy your Volt!
 

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If your living quarters were built within the last 30 years or so, you should not have any issues. If you are handy, replace the receptacle where you are plugging in with a heavy duty rated receptacle and use the screw terminals and not the back-stab type connections.

If older than 30 years, you want to make sure you do not have aluminum wiring (not used in every region but in some regions ) and if you do, make sure the connections are good at the receptacle and you will want to check the wiring frequently until you are certain there are no issues. If not aluminum, then make sure the circuit you are using is not overloaded in any way and is somewhat isolated from high current appliances (such as a heater, dehumidifier etc ). FYI, aluminum wire expands and contracts more than copper causing the aluminum wire to fatigue more and loosen or break at the connection point. If the residence is real old, be careful as there likely are too many receptacles on a circuit and the condition of the wire and the receptacles may not be as good as they should be.

When you flip to 12amps, for the first few charges, frequently take note of the temps at the receptacle and the plug. It should be warm but not hot. Hot is bad. Warm is ok. Cool is best.

FYI, on a 15 amp circuit, 12 amps is the maximum continuous load that should be on the circuit. That is why a dedicated circuit is recommended - it eliminates the chance that something else is plugged into the same circuit and drawing current just enough to heat up the wiring but not pop the breaker, especially if over a period of 14 hours.

Cheap receptacles and poor connections cause resistance and micro-arching which causes heat build up and eventually melts wires, especially if the circuit breaker or fuse is not the correct size or working properly. Cheap receptacles also cannot handle frequent plugging and unplugging and will wear down the contacts in the receptacle and will create resistance. Heavy duty receptacles last longer and resist wear better.
 

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Not to be an alarmist, but this is what can happen if you have something else on the same circuit.


This was 100% my fault. But clearly shows what can go wrong if your not diligent.

That's when I decided I wanted/needed a dedicated 240V/30 amp circuit and bought a Clipper Creek LCS-25 EVSE


I sleep better and I charge so much faster.

Cheers
 

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Thank you. Being a newbie could you tell me where to find that? Also, does that create any load or safety issues with my home circuits?
You don't need to be a qualified electrician to figure this out. Look at the plug that you are about to plug into, plug a lamp into it, find the circuit breaker that causes that lamp to turn off when you turn off the breaker. Move that lamp around to naerby sockets to see what else is in that circuit. Also look at the number on that circuit breaker. If you don't have anything big plugged into any of the outlets that turned off when you turned off the circuit breaker and the circuit breaker has a 20 on it, you should be good. I'd you've got an air compressor or refrigerator or welder, or any other appliance also plugged into any of the outlets on that ciircuit, then no, you should not use the 12 setting.

Alas. If you had to ask, maybe an electrician is needed.

Better yet, get a 240V L2 EVSE installed and enjoy 4.5 to 5 hour charge times. You'll never justify the additional cost with fuel savings, but the freedom of being able to go to the store after an hour or so of charging is really liberating.
 

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You don't need to be a qualified electrician to figure this out. Look at the plug that you are about to plug into, plug a lamp into it, find the circuit breaker that causes that lamp to turn off when you turn off the breaker. Move that lamp around to nearby sockets to see what else is in that circuit. Also look at the number on that circuit breaker. If you don't have anything big plugged into any of the outlets that turned off when you turned off the circuit breaker and the circuit breaker has a 20 on it, you should be good. I'd you've got an air compressor or refrigerator or welder, or any other appliance also plugged into any of the outlets on that circuit, then no, you should not use the 12 setting.
And unplugged is really the key. If you can unplug all that stuff and be fine about it, then okay, unplug it. If you can't unplug it, for logistical or spousal reasons ("Deep freeze with all your spumoni in it" or "Why are you unplugging the garage door opener? Because some guy on the internet said to?"), get the electrician.
 

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...If you need to use an extension cord, make sure it's 12 AWG or better (e.g. lower numbers such as 10 AWG). When in doubt, contact a qualified electrician for advice :D.
Enjoy your Volt!
Just a reminder that use of an extension cord with an EVSE is a violation of Article 625 of the National Electric Code. Don't give your insurance company an excuse to deny a claim if you don't have to. Do it right as recommended by other posters in this thread.

KNS
 

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Not to be an alarmist, but this is what can happen if you have something else on the same circuit.

That looks like a bad connection that caused a higher resistance and subsequent heat build up. Those outlets should be fine with 15a or 20a (depending on your breaker). But...I guess it wasn't...my feeling is one of the stab-in terminations just didn't have enough contact. This is why the lawyers at GM default to 8 amps.
 

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Not to be an alarmist, but this is what can happen if you have something else on the same circuit.
Note back stabs were used in the above. Check to make sure the screw terminals are used instead.
 

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Once you go 240v, you never go back...
This so much :)

Wired up my stock Gen2 charger to a dedicated 240V 20A circuit. Thing charges like a dream, basically every 1 hour I get 10 miles of range.

The icing on the cake is this little dream I designed and built to make sure I don't have any cords all over the place in my garage:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBbvdXXPG_A
 

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Since you rent perhaps a chat with the landlord or corporation would be in order. IF you could get a dedicated 240 line and breaker run to a proper outlet and get a CC EVSE with the pigtail plug you should be set. When you move someday you unplug and take the equipment with you and leave a tidy plug suitable for the next folks.
 

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Fried outlets and plugs are a Gen 1 problem. 2016 and 2017 stock EVSEs have a thermal overload switch in the plug. If it gets hot it shuts off.
There is no auto reset or reset button. The plug must be pulled from the outlet and re-inserted.
So no more fried plugs and outlets but the car may only charge for 15 minutes.
You still have to have a quality outlet and wiring as outlined by others just without the smoke and fire!
 
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