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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, ill try and keep this short....

I recently purchased a HID system from the retrofit source and installed it. Love the look and replaced all bulbs on the car with LEDs inside and out. After having the hid system in for a week I started seeing the right headlight not fire up on initial start each day. After I drive down the street it flickers to life.

Not knowing what could be the problem I called retrofit source and haventried swapping out all parts with new and still get thesame issue. After some research I learned this is a known, but rare issue. I was not happy with the retrofit customer service at all so I ended up returning the systrem for a full refund, and have purchased the Phillips brand as they are said to be the best in the industry.

While waiting for my new set I have done more research and talked to volt owners on facebook. Some thought it could be my 12 volt battery is starting to go bad, so here I am.

I am looking for any information I can fins on replacing the 12 volt battery. I have heard it is a "special" kind of battery and thwt I could have some system restart problems. I figured this is probqbly the best place to seek more advise and help as I could not find detailed instructions online. Every search for chevy volt battery pulls up the drive battery which makes the search difficult online.

Let me know if anyone has "upgraded" your battery to one with more starting power?
Any fyi's one replacing?
Is it like a normal swap out on ICE cars?

Thanks everyone!
 

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In a Volt, the 12 volt battery runs the computer system. It has no starting power as the starting is done using the 360V system. The BCI number of the Volt battery is special??? Few discount parts stores may show it's availability, but most can check the battery with their handy computerized battery evaluation equipment.
 

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So, ill try and keep this short....

I recently purchased a HID system from the retrofit source and installed it. Love the look and replaced all bulbs on the car with LEDs inside and out. After having the hid system in for a week I started seeing the right headlight not fire up on initial start each day. After I drive down the street it flickers to life.

Not knowing what could be the problem I called retrofit source and haventried swapping out all parts with new and still get thesame issue. After some research I learned this is a known, but rare issue. I was not happy with the retrofit customer service at all so I ended up returning the systrem for a full refund, and have purchased the Phillips brand as they are said to be the best in the industry.

While waiting for my new set I have done more research and talked to volt owners on facebook. Some thought it could be my 12 volt battery is starting to go bad, so here I am.

I am looking for any information I can fins on replacing the 12 volt battery. I have heard it is a "special" kind of battery and thwt I could have some system restart problems. I figured this is probqbly the best place to seek more advise and help as I could not find detailed instructions online. Every search for chevy volt battery pulls up the drive battery which makes the search difficult online.

Let me know if anyone has "upgraded" your battery to one with more starting power?
Any fyi's one replacing?
Is it like a normal swap out on ICE cars?

Thanks everyone!
This is almost certainly a bad ballast. Retro fit source was great for me. I got a bad ballast initially. There ended up being a recall on a certain number of ballast, and mine were included, but this was about a year ago. Retro fit source sent me new parts (just ballast), I installed, and (took pictures and destroyed the old ones). Never a flicker again. Have always fired up and are super bright. I am not sure I understood your post. It is unclear whether you actually went through the trouble shooting or not. I give retro fit source props. There customer service was top notch for me. This is not your battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes I have been through all troubleshooting with the retrofit source who I have heard has good customer service. In my situation they were definitely not. They argued with me about two of the part exchanges and then wanted me to pay restocking fees when I asked to return for full refund. I do not wish to work with then again.

They tried swapping ballasts and bulbs with no luck. Hence why others thought I could have a 12 volt battery that just isn't kicking enough power initially to fire it up. Though they could be wrong as it appears someone said the drive train battery is what fires your bulbs....

Guess I will see what the high end Phillips HIDS do and go from there.

Thanks guys.
 

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After I drive down the street it flickers to life.

They tried swapping ballasts and bulbs with no luck.
It could be a connector pin not in all the way, distorted or poorly crimped. With the new set, be sure of the connections before swapping parts.

And it doesn't hurt to have your battery tested either, unlikely as it is to be the problem.
 

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1.Modified the car lighting system with non stock parts
2.One light goes bad (not all).
3. Replace non-standard parts with more non-standard parts, Same light goes bad.
I would disagree with the facebook conclusion that the cause could be the car's 12V battery.

As others have pointed out, a bad 12V can make the car's dash go a bit nutty or even prevent the car from starting. However, a 12V battery doesn't make one headlight repeatedly fail. I'd be looking at the components and the workmanship of the modifications that were installed. Pins, wires, ballasts would all be suspect.
 

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PLUS when the car is running the 12 Volt buss can be 14-15 Volts.
Check with your Voltmeter.
 

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PLUS when the car is running the 12 Volt buss can be 14-15 Volts.
Check with your Voltmeter.
Cheap quick HID option from Amazon $50

Not only that but the specific headlamp voltage fed from the (K9) Body Control Module (BCM) is pulse-width modulated (PWM). I ended up installing a dedicated relay in order to drive the HID ballasts with constant non-modulated 12VDC instead of the PWM headlamp voltage which is also NOT fused after leaving the BCM...
 

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Or get the 'anti-flicker', 'Canbus ready' inline capacitors. They smooth out the pulsed voltage going the the stock incandescent headlight bulbs.
I bought a set of HID's that were Canbus ready, the capacitors are in the ballast. This was after dikin with a cheap set of HID's.
 

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What's 'special' about the battery is that it is an AGM type, because it is located in the cabin. Any AGM battery will work to replace it.

Having said that, I'm with the majority who are convinced that the battery has nothing to do with your problem. I'm pretty sure it's the cheap HID kit not being designed to work with a modern car that manages power flow to the headlights to reduce shock load on the filaments and watch for burned out bulbs.
 

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Right, once the car is booted up and in 'Ready' mode the 12V battery is just along for the ride.
It just sits there on the "12V bus" which is really ~14 volts supplied by the DC to DC converter.
 

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I bought my Morimoto kit for Retrofit. My lights flickered and sometimes failed to fire. When I contacted them, they said there was a recall on the ballasts, and they sent me a new pair. The new ballasts provide a much higher initial voltatge and they also regulate the power better than the recalled units. After I installed the new ballasts, I have had no problems so far.
20140116_174336_zps55xbdkr6.jpg
 

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...I am looking for any information I can fins on replacing the 12 volt battery....
Let me know if anyone has "upgraded" your battery to one with more starting power?
....
I agree with what Steverino wrote. for your 12 volt battery, you can shop around, but are not likely to find much price variation on a battery that has the right case size and configuration for this interior installation. At most shops this battery will be a special order, there has not been much demand for them
 

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What's 'special' about the battery is that it is an AGM type, because it is located in the cabin. Any AGM battery will work to replace it.
Well... yes, AMG. But it needs to have certain ratings and physical design. Not just any old AGM will do. First, it needs to have a 60 AH or greater rating. Then, it should have a 600 CCA rating (although it's not going to be used to crank an ICE). It should also have a vent tube capability in the rare event that the battery ever vents. A nice thing about AGM batteries is that they rarely vent to the atmosphere. Also, you need to make sure that the connections are located correctly and are the correct diameter. With the poles facing you, the anode is on your left and the cathode on your right. Lastly, the physical size matters to a degree. Too high and the hold-down strap wont be able to do its job, let alone the tray cover not fitting correctly. Other that those considerations, any AGM battery will work 8^)


I've used http://jupiterbatteries.com/ as a source for a replacement battery for the 2002 Prius I once owned. It was still going strong after 4 years of use, when I sold the car. I think I paid less than half what the dealer wanted. I jury rigged to be able to use it because it wasn't an exact duplicate. Oh, and it didn't have a vent tube and battery never vented..
 
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