Coolant changes wouldn't be a bad idea, all three. Not technically due by miles, but time doesn't help it. Plugs and wires are at leas worth inspecting, because corrosion on those can lead to being stuck. Might want to think about doing AC flush early too, if you think disturbing it might trigger problems. That's your battery chiller as well. That's about that I can think of.My 2011 volt is nearing 100,000 miles, and I was wondering what Maintenance items you guys recommend I do. I haven't done much to it besides the basics (oil change, tires, breaks).
I no longer have the maintenance manual
Link to the manual in my signature or here https://my.chevrolet.com/learn/2011/VoltMy 2011 volt is nearing 100,000 miles, and I was wondering what Maintenance items you guys recommend I do. I haven't done much to it besides the basics (oil change, tires, breaks).
I no longer have the maintenance manual
I would have been a bit harsher with RTFM. One thing to check is turn off the radio, accelerate hard in L, lift, repeat, and listen for any popping noises (sounds like a relay, but it's really something physical in the drivetrain). If you hear these noises, step 1 is to torque your nuts, step 2 might be an axle nut and washer replacement, and step 3 is a wheel bearing.Link to the manual in my signature or here https://my.chevrolet.com/learn/2011/Volt
or
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?152273-RTFM-Here-are-your-online-manuals
Not in that interval, maybe. They will EVENTUALLY. It's not a ruinously expensive repair either, so it's not unreasonable to just do the instant you get to the "hmm, that's funny...." stage of failure after the 100k miles marker's flown past. ALL of that shouldn't be more than $1000 even with GM parts.It really depends on how long you want to keep the car. If you want another 6-7 years/100.000 miles out of it, then do what is called for in the Owner's Manual, at a minimum. Just for giggles, I would have the brake calipers cleaned and re-lubed, in addition to what others have mentioned. Also, I would be prepared to experience a wheel bearing failure and CV joint failure during the second 100,000 mile interval. Those are not major failures and their cost is minimal compared to the cost of a new car. ...And they might not occur. 8^)
Thank you. What do you mean by lift? Lift your foot off the pedal?I would have been a bit harsher with RTFM. One thing to check is turn off the radio, accelerate hard in L, lift, repeat, and listen for any popping noises (sounds like a relay, but it's really something physical in the drivetrain). If you hear these noises, step 1 is to torque your nuts, step 2 might be an axle nut and washer replacement, and step 3 is a wheel bearing.
The coolant systems don't need to be touched until 120k miles according to the FM.
When you reach higher miles, check the suspension (shocks, struts, springs, tie rods, etc) and wheel alignment. Check the brakes rotors, calipers, and pads, though I highly doubt anyone has worn through a set yet.
If you haven't replaced your 12V battery yet, you're living on borrowed time. They usually only last 5 years or so. (I should probably get a new battery soon, I'm coming up on year 4)
Finally, if you don't regularly wash, wax, and detail the interior and exterior of the car it might be worth it to get a good detailing job done. It would be a small price to pay for car that looks "like new" for far less than the price of a new car.
Yes, I took mine to my local dealership. Unfortunately they're the only game in town for the Volt and they know it. Service tends to be poor unless you have a high end truck it seems. I tried calling to arrange an appointment on a couple occasions without any return call and finally ended up going down early one morning and just showing up as a walk-in. Total cost for all 3 services ran right around $450 and required leaving the car in the morning and returning before their service department closed at 6. I believe each service was about $125. If I had the option, I honestly would have rather went to LA. I had a good experience at one of the dealerships in Van Nuys. Unfortunately that wasn't doable at the time.Hey Freshcut,
I have a 13 and am looking around at my choices for service for something like you did.
Did you go to a dealer? You had to pay extra for the brake flush?
If you don't mind me asking, what did that run you?
Thanks
Sorry, little off topic
Thank you. What do you mean by "lift" though? Lift your foot off the gas pedal?I would have been a bit harsher with RTFM. One thing to check is turn off the radio, accelerate hard in L, lift, repeat, and listen for any popping noises (sounds like a relay, but it's really something physical in the drivetrain). If you hear these noises, step 1 is to torque your nuts, step 2 might be an axle nut and washer replacement, and step 3 is a wheel bearing.
The coolant systems don't need to be touched until 120k miles according to the FM.
When you reach higher miles, check the suspension (shocks, struts, springs, tie rods, etc) and wheel alignment. Check the brakes rotors, calipers, and pads, though I highly doubt anyone has worn through a set yet.
If you haven't replaced your 12V battery yet, you're living on borrowed time. They usually only last 5 years or so. (I should probably get a new battery soon, I'm coming up on year 4)
Finally, if you don't regularly wash, wax, and detail the interior and exterior of the car it might be worth it to get a good detailing job done. It would be a small price to pay for car that looks "like new" for far less than the price of a new car.
Exactly. Considering how little has been spent on maintenance in the first 100,000 miles, $1,000 or less(probably only $500) is still a drop in the bucket by comparison to a normal ICE with oil changes and brake jobs with rotor turning/replacements.... or not. Each ICE car is going to have its own costs, What the OP has to decide is whether or not spending $500 for maintenance that will last another 100,000 miles is worth it - is he going to keep it that long.Not in that interval, maybe. They will EVENTUALLY. It's not a ruinously expensive repair either, so it's not unreasonable to just do the instant you get to the "hmm, that's funny...." stage of failure after the 100k miles marker's flown past. ALL of that shouldn't be more than $1000 even with GM parts.