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    1. · Administrator
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      Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
      Your Volt owner's manual has details on using a 120V outlet to charge your car and the safety issues and precautions surrounding that. It's important you read it. This guide does not replace that, nor is it meant to be the final authority. Instead it's a compilation of what other owners have posted. Do not mistake us for electricians, experts on electrical codes, or the like.

      Terminology
      The charge cord is also known as an EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment). It's not a "charger". The actual charger is behind the Volt's bumper on the right side.

      Don't Skimp on Safety
      Consider doing these:

      • Hire an electrician to inspect the 120V outlet you will be plugging into, the wiring and circuit breaker that it's connected to. You'll be saving up to $2k/year on gas. Invest some savings in electrical safety.
      • Make sure the wiring is rated for 15 Amps minimum. A dedicated circuit (not shared with any other appliances) is best.
      • Regardless of how new the house it, replace the outlet with a new heavy duty, commercial-grade ($6-$25) or hospital grade ($25-$50) outlet. Don't argue, just do it. You spend more than that on dinner, haha.
        If you have a GFCI breaker you can use a standard hospital grade outlet that costs under $10 on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030CZSE8/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
        If you need a hospital grade GFCI outlet you can find one for about $25 on Amazon.
        http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring...ie=UTF8&qid=1386610672&sr=8-1&keywords=VGFH15
      • Make sure the outlet is grounded, and the Neutral and Hot wires are connected to the outlet using the side screws not the back stab holes. Lazy electricians love those stab holes. But they don't love your family as much as you do.
      • In the U.S. 120v outlets in garages and outdoors must be protected by a GFCI per the NEC. Typically this is done with a GFCI outlet. But could also be implemented with a GFCI circuit breaker or a fed-through "upstream" GFCI. The "Don't Skimp on Safety" section is a bit vague on this. Again, for EV application (high current, lots of plugging/unplugging) use a commercial grade or better GFCI. Regardless, a GFCI is needed if an extension cord (not recommended by GM) will be used with the EVSE.
      • Install a hanger or the mounting plate on the wall. Installation instructions came with the charge cord. Do not hang the EVSE from the plug.

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      Common 120V Outlet Charging Questions
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      Why can't I just plug an extension cord into the car?
      Safety. The charge cord has many safety features that an extension cord lacks:
      • The charging handle (a.k.a the coupler) is not powered until plugged into and commanded by the Volt. This is very advantageous when plugging in outside during a rain or snow fall. You would not want to carry around a live wire in those conditions.
      • While not required by code, a J1772 compliant 125V cord and plug EVSE will de-energize the cable connecting to the Volt whenever the electrical connector is uncoupled from the vehicle. Again, an advantage when unplugging during rain or snow.
      • The 120V Voltec charge cord charge current can be selected at 12A or 8A to accommodate use on circuits with non-continuous loads. (MY 2011, 2012) In MY 2013, the car controls this selection.
      • The Ground pin is the first to engage, last to disengage and break (for safety).
      • Proximity Detection pin prevents the car from moving while charging (for safety). Prevents driving away and tearing electrical wires from the wall or car.
      • The Control Pilot pin is the last to engage, first to disengage and break. It communicates charge rate available to determine amount of current (amperes) allowed for the vehicle being charged.
      Do I need to hire an electrician?
      The best recommendation I can give is to hire an electrician to inspect your outlets, wiring, and breaker to make sure they are adequate for the Volt's continuous 12A load over 12 hours. The breaker should be 15A. Before doing any electrical repair or replacement, be sure to kill the power at the breaker and verify it's off at the outlet. If you don't understand all the technical jargon, or you don't want to understand it, you should call a qualified electrician.

      Do I need a dedicated circuit?
      That would be best. 12 Amps is the allowable limit for a continuous load (longer than 3 hrs.) on a 15 amp circuit. If anything else is on the circuit (a microwave oven, toaster ovens, hair dryer, TV, stereo, etc.), then it would be in violation of code. The breaker can't stop you from foolishly plugging in other devices until it heats up enough to trip itself, but if it does NOT trip for some reason, excessive heat, melting, charring, arcing or worse could result. So, if you're using 12 amps to charge, make sure it's the only load on that circuit. And don't switch out the breaker for a higher rating just to avoid tripping it. That's asking for big trouble up to and including fire.

      Can I plug into any 120V wall outlet?
      Probably, but depending on the age and quality of the outlet, it's wiring connections, and other appliances that may be sharing the same circuit, you may need to use the Volt's lower 8 Amp setting. If the condition of the electrical system is unknown (opportunity charging, or grandma's cottage), either don't plug in, or only charge at 8 Amps. The AC outlet must have a grounded, dedicated, 15 amp or greater, three‐prong wall plug. That means there should be no other major appliances connected to the same circuit. If it is not a dedicated circuit, the current rating of the outlet circuit breaker could be exceeded and cause it to trip or open. If you have no choice but to plug into a non‐dedicated circuit, the vehicle can be charged in the reduced level mode (8 Amps), but it increases the charging time.

      Can I keep the EVSE plugged into the outlet all the time?
      Yes. However, if your EVSE is plugged in more or less full time, remove and reinsert the plug a few times a year. It gives an opportunity to check for any obvious damage, plus rubs the copper contacts clean of oxide. The OCD types may wish to lightly sand (and thoroughly clean afterward) the plug prongs to expose new shiny copper once a year.

      Does my portable EVSE (a.k.a. charge cord) need to be plugged in to a GFI/GFCI protected outlet?
      No, the EVSE has a built-in GFI/GFCI function as part of the SAE specification for a J1772 plug (called a CCID—Circuit Current Interrupt Device—also UL specs UL2202). Note: GFCI use IS required when using extension cords.
      An EVSE may cause some GFI/GFCI outlets to trip. There are 5 mA threshold and 30 mA threshold GFCI's. If you have the lower threshold kind, the EVSE may trip it. The 30 mA threshold is slower to trip and often used in garages and workshops. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Residual-current_device

      Can I use the charge cord outside?
      Yes, but plug into a weather protected outlet. Though rated for outdoor use, some place their EVSE in a clear or colored plastic container (below), with notches for the cables to add protection from standing water or puddles. The container lid keeps out the rain.



      Can I precondition my car using 120V or do I need 240V?
      Preconditioning (warming or cooling the car while it's plugged in) prior to a trip can be done with 120V but takes longer because it requires more electricity than the 120V connection can supply. The balance is taken from the battery. The car then needs to be recharged to top off the battery. A 240V EVSE will be faster for preconditioning.

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      Potential 120V Outlet Charging Issues
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      WARNING. Using the charge cord with a worn or damaged AC outlet may cause burns or start a fire. Periodically, check the AC wall plug and charge cord while the vehicle is charging. If the AC wall plug feels hot, unplug the charge cord and have the AC outlet replaced by a qualified electrician. Replace the charge cord if the AC wall plug or cord are damaged. Do not use an AC outlet that is worn or damaged.

      Old, Worn or Cheap Outlets. The outlet must be three prong not an old two prong outlet (below). Older outlets may have brass female receptacles that are worn or corroded due to age or repeated use. This can cause excessive heat, melting, charring, arcing or worse. Cheap receptacles may allow the plug to fit in loose instead of nice and tight and it gets worse the more it is used. When you get loose fitting connections, you may get "micro arcing" that leaves deposits of carbon on the metal parts. As it loosens more, you get more carbon buildup and this is where the resulting electrical resistance starts to cause heat, melting, charring, arcing or worse. Replace an old, worn, or cheap outlet with a new heavy duty, commercial-grade ($6-$25) or hospital grade ($25-$50) outlet. If the outlet is protected by a 15 Amp breaker, use a 15A outlet. If it's a 20 Amp circuit, use a 20A outlet.



      Mis-Wired Outlets. The outlet may have a poor or missing ground, or the polarity of the Neutral and Hot terminals may be reversed. These can cause the EVSE to not work, to work intermittently, or to stop working altogether. Check the outlet with an outlet circuit tester (below) for these and other easily identified issues. Fix as needed.



      Inadequate Wiring. The wire connected to the outlet must be sized according to the draw. A 15A circuit requires a minimum 14 awg wire, and a 20A circuit requires a minimum 12 awg. If the wire size is too small, this can cause excessive heat, melting, charring or worse. A properly-wired circuit should be able to provide 80% of 15 A (i.e., 12 A) continuously 24/7 with no trip and no damage. Shoddy work goes undetected until it gets put under heavy sustained load (such as charging an EV).

      Back-Stab Wiring. This wiring shortcut results in more electrical resistance and under high loads—like charging a car—can cause excessive heat, melting, charring, arcing or worse. Make sure the outlet is using the screw terminals in the side instead of the rear back stab holes (below)*. Screws have more contact area with the wire and therefore less resistance. Make sure the wires are torqued tight to the mounting screws. Of course, you never know which other plugs are daisy chained between your charging outlet and the main panel. Those may be wired using the push-in terminals. So check all the outlets on the same circuit, or have a dedicated 120V, 15A circuit installed for your car. *Note, some newer back stab holes use side screw to squeeze the wire between two pretty good sized pieces of copper. This design may be replacing the older spring-loaded back-stab and would seem to offer the contact area of side screws with the convenience of back stabbing.

      On the 'back stab' outlets caution - the versions with the screw-in side plates (rather than the push-in holes on cheapo outlets) are generally the commercial/"Spec" grade or higher (i.e., Industrial or hospital.) Good examples are the Leviton BR15s and BR20s and their Hubbell/Eagle/P&S equivalents. Even these clamping style terminals on spec grade outlets are suspect if they don't clamp with enough pressure. Just say no to cheapo residential grade outlets.




      Extension Cords. An extension cord should not be used to charge the vehicle. Use of an extension cord may increase the risk of electric shock or other hazards. If an extension cord is used because of limited access to 120V AC power, the extension cord should be GFCI protected, 3 conductor, rated for outdoor and 12 gauge (10 gauge would be better). Though not recommended, some use extension cords with success. Those who use extension cords successfully prefer:


      Plug Strain. Hanging the EVSE from the plug puts strain on the plug, the wire, and the EVSE. This can lead to shorts, melting, charring, sparking or worse. Hang the EVSE from it's handle instead, or use the wall mounting plate that came with the EVSE to have a convenient docking station for the EVSE to slip into. Recommended distance from the vehicle charge port is 2 ft.(.5m) to 15 ft.(5m). The appropriate height is 3 ft. (1m) from the floor.




      Hot Cord or Plug. The charge cord used to charge the vehicle is a high‐powered electrical device. The AC wall plug must fit tightly into an AC outlet that is in good condition. During normal operation, the AC wall plug of the charge cord may feel warm. This is normal. If your cord or its plug are too hot to touch (instead of warm), stop using the outlet and have the outlet checked by an electrician for the issues above.

      120V EVSE Installation Instructions PDF
      Here's a PDF of the L1 installation instructions: http://gm-volt.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=528&d=1290195000

      120V EVSE User Instructions
      The user instructions that came printed on plastic hang tag can be seen here: http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?15259-Voltec-120v-and-240v-Hang-Tags&p=168840#post168840
       
    1. · Registered
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      Read this thread:

      http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?48937-120V-Charging-FAQ

      Something like this:

      http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=viglink20686-20

      Or this would be better.

      http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring...72&sr=8-1&keywords=VGFH15&tag=viglink20686-20

      A commercial or hospital grade outlet will provide the best performance. (And last longer.)

      If the outlet is a GFCI you should replace it with GFCI. If it is a regular outlet you can go with as regular outlet. You can find Hospital grade in either GFCI or standard.

      If you are not sure what to do... Call an IEBW certified electrician. You will get the advice you need.
       
    1. · Registered
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      I will be calling an electrician to take a look. My house is 9 years old and the outlet I used is right next to the breaker box.
      I strongly recommend having the electrician install a "hospital grade" outlet while he is there. He may try to charge an outlandish price. You could pre-order one on Amazon so you have the part before the electrician arrives.

      Non GFCI

      GFCI

      Hospital grade outlets have much higher quality contacts that can take the load without heating up.

      If you are considering having an L2 EVSE installed people say great things about the Clipper Creek models. They are a great value and they are a reliable choice.
       
    1. · Registered
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      Ok... The first thing you need to read this THIS thread:

      http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?48937-120V-Charging-FAQ

      Your plug melted because the outlet you plugged the cord into has corroded weak spring contacts that could not handle a 12 amp load despite being rated for 15 amps. You really need to replace that outlet with a high quality outlet.

      I recommend using a hospital grade outlet. I would recommend a Cooper AH8300V.

      http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030CZSE8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

      Your dealer should replace your Voltec EVSE under warranty. Go to your dealer's service department. Show them the melted cord. They will order you a new charger. Until the replacement EVSE arrives you can still drive your car on gas. (Something a Tesla owner cannot do.)
       

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